Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.
Gnadenlos, ruthless, without mercy. This is the name of the latest climb put up by Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner on the NW Face of Ortler, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol. The reason why the drip has this name is obvious and serves as a warning, as the objective dangers are immense. Firstly during the rockfall-prone approach, and secondly due to the fat that the drip is located directly below the huge serac.
Gnadenlos is clearly visible above the Berglhütte hut, circa 150 meters to the right of Pleishornwasserfall, and according to Ladurner it came into condition for the first time ever about 3 weeks ago. 200 meters of water ice are followed by 100 meters up the serac, before abseiling off via Abalakov threads. The official grade is "WI5 with great risk". It goes without saying that a danger like this once is simply incalculable.
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