Home page Planetmountain.com
Climbing Russisches Roulette up Kristallwand (Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer 17/11/2018)
Photo by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Russisches Roulette up Kristallwand (Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer 17/11/2018)
Photo by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer on 17/11/2018 on the summit of Kristallwand after having made the first ascent of Russisches Roulette
Photo by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Kristallwand and the route Russisches Roulette established by Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer on 17/11/2018
Photo by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer

Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer

di

Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).

Two weeks ago the brother and mountain guides Peter and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Russian Roulette, a new mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand, a 3310m peak in the Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria.

The Wurzer brothers initially intended to repeat Hobby Strahler, the route climbed in 2010 by Simon Gietl, Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini up the mountain’s same face, but as soon as they got close to the wall they noted a "mega line of ice on the righthand side." Their joy was somewhat dampened though by the huge serac that loomed menacingly above the first 180 meters of the climb.

After a cold night at the base of the wall, during which they heard the serac collapse several times, and after having discussed at length whether to take on the objective hazard, the two set off early on the morning of 17 November.

"We both closed our eyes and listened to our stomach, then we looked at each other, shook hands and climbed the dangerous section at full speed in order to reach the start of the steep ice where we were safe." Another 5 "brilliant" pitches led them to the original route, established in 1933 by Albert Santner und Willi Trost, which they followed for a further 250 meters to the summit.

The new line is described as a "a challenging mixed route up to M6." It is also, as implied by its name Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, also somewhat dangerous.

Info: bergfuehrerkals.wordpress.com, www.iceguides.at,  Petzl

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
30.12.2016
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
14.12.2016
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
The report by Vittorio Messini who together with Isidor Poppeller and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of 'Mehr denn je Hintersee' (800m, M7+ WI6+ 08/12/2016), a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Hochbirghöhe (2767m), High Tauern, Austria.
Ski mountaineering in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria
09.01.2012
Ski mountaineering in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria
Figerhorn, Langschneid and Hochgasser, three ski mountaineering itineraries in the Upper Tauern, East Tirol, Austria, introduced by Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide Kals am Großglockner.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra