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Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
05/03/2019 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat search for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard continues
No substantial news from Nanga Parbat while the group of rescuers coordinated by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon worked hard at searching the mountain for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February. Tomorrow the search efforts will continue
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
23/10/2018 - Alpinism
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.
Andrzej Bargiel completes historic first ski descent of K2
Andrzej Bargiel completes historic first ski descent of K2
On 22 July 2018 30-year-old Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel made the coveted historic first ski descent of K2, skiing directly off the 8611m high summit of the second highest mountain in the world.
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
11/07/2018 - Alpinism
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV
32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.
Triolet North Face daring descent by Jonathan Charlet and Christophe Henry
Triolet North Face daring descent by Jonathan Charlet and Christophe Henry
France's Jonathan Charlet and Christophe Henry have made a ski and snowboard descent down the North Face of Triolet, Mont Blanc massif.
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
15/12/2017 - Alpinism
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of...
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
On 27 October the Italian mountaineer Enrico Mosetti and the Britons Ben Briggs and Tom Grant made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face, the difficult and dangerous SE Face of Mount Aoraki / Mount Cook (3724m) in New Zealand. The achievement has already been described by the local...
Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
19/10/2017 - Alpinism
Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

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