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Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
18/12/2017 - Alpinism
Ice climbing Dolomites: the unknown ice climb up Torre Vitty
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: an unknown ice climb, highly recommended by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, up Torre Vitty in the Sella massif.
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
15/12/2017 - Alpinism
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of...
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
14/12/2017 - Alpinism
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
Winter mountaineering in Scotland: on the Church Door Buttress at Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe the expert British mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of Lost Arrow Winter Variation, describing the demanding line as 'one of the most sustained routes' they have ever...
Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon
12/12/2017 - Alpinism
Adventure and alpinism in the Antarctic: Spectre climbed by Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon
Alpinism and exploration in Antarctica: Leo Houlding, Jean Burgun and Mark Sedon have climbed the 1263 m high Spectre peak on the continent’s Gothic Mountains.
Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau
11/12/2017 - Alpinism
Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau
Climbing alpine style over five days, American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made the first ascent of Rungofarka 6495 m in the Zanskar mountain range in the Indian Himalaya.
Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii
30/11/2017 - Alpinism
Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii
On 28 October 2017 Russian mountaineers Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii completed the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. Climbing in alpine style, the two required five days to forge their route up the mountain’s SW Face.
Mountaineering in New Zealand, Ben Dare climbs new route on Mount Cook
28/11/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in New Zealand, Ben Dare climbs new route on Mount Cook
On 18 November 2017 Ben Dare from New Zealand made the first ascent, solo, of Remembrance, a new 550 m climb up the South Face of Aoraki / Mt Cook.
Climbing video: Sardinia's spectacular Aguglia di Goloritzé
17/11/2017 - Climbing
Climbing video: Sardinia's spectacular Aguglia di Goloritzé
Two climbers, unknown and beautiful, reach the top of Aguglia di Goloritzè, the splendid limestone needle in Sardinia. A moment of pure joy high above the turquoise sea of the Gulf of Orosei.
Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya
17/11/2017 - Alpinism
Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya
Georgian mountaineers Giorgi Tepnadze, Bakar Gelashvili and Archil Badriashvili have established a new route up the SE Face of Larkya Main. It is also the first ascent of this 6425m high mountain in the Himalaya.
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
14/11/2017 - Alpinism
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
Mountaineering in the Himalayas: in the Lunag Massif (Khumbu region) the French mountaineers Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier have climbed Tolérance Zero, a new 1100m route described as elegant, logical and technical up the North Face of Pangbuk North (6589 m).
Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker
11/11/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar, new route in Himalaya climbed by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist, Julian Zanker
On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Last May and June Slovakian alpinists Miroslav Peťo and Maroš Červienka carried out a series of difficult ski descents in the Caucasus massif in Georgia: the SW Ridge of Tetnuldi (4858 m), the SE couloir of Chatyn Tau (4412 m) and, above all, the SE couloir of Ushba North summit...
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
28/10/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
26/10/2017 - Alpinism
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
From Italy with love, new Italian trad climb in Canada's Bugaboos
25/10/2017 - Alpinism
From Italy with love, new Italian trad climb in Canada's Bugaboos
From 15 - 16 August 2017 the XMountain Mountain Guide Luca Montanari and Arianna Del Sordo made the first ascent of 'From Italy with love', a trad climb up the Crescent Towers in the heart of the Bugaboo Spires, Canada.

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