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Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
06/08/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.
Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
06/08/2020 - Environment
Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier
The video by Bertrand Delpierre illustrating the retreat of the Mer de Glace glacier in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
Stefano Carnati makes his Moon Landing 9a at Passo della Presolana
29/07/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati makes his Moon Landing 9a at Passo della Presolana
At Passo della Presolana in Northern Italy Stefano Carnati has made the first free ascent of Moon Landing 9a.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
22/07/2020 - Alpinism
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.
Cesar Grosso sends Pure Dreaming 9a at Arco
19/07/2020 - Climbing
Cesar Grosso sends Pure Dreaming 9a at Arco
Brazilian climber Cesar Grosso reports about his first 9a, Pure Dreaming at Massone close to Arco. The 36-year-old has been living in Italy since 2013 and after competing for 23 years is now dedicating himself exclusively to climbing outdoors.
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
14/07/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.
Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco
13/07/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi takes The Bow, new 9a+ at Padaro, Arco
27-year-old climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of The Bow, a new 9a+ sport climb at the crag Padaro in Arco, Italy.
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
10/07/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa
Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.

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