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Daniel Woods no slouch on Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona
11/03/2020 - Climbing
Daniel Woods no slouch on Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona
American climber Daniel Woods made the third ascent of Off the Wagon sit, the boulder problem freed by Shawn Raboutou in Val Bavona, Switzerland graded 8C + / V16 and repeated in February by Jimmy Webb.
Climbing during the Covid-19 crisis
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Climbing during the Covid-19 crisis
With indoor gyms closed in Italy many climbers consider climbing outdoors. However, one must not ignore the fact that now, with many areas quarantined, it is paramount that everyone acts even more responsibly, for themselves but also for others. Happy climbing (if you can) and well wishes to all, from...
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Romain Desgranges retires from international climbing competitions
04/03/2020 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges retires from international climbing competitions
French climber Romain Desgranges, double European Lead Champion and winner of the 2017 Lead World Cup, has officially retired from sports climbing competitions.
Cerro Torre's immense rime ice mushroom avalanche
03/03/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre's immense rime ice mushroom avalanche
The video of the recent rime ice mushroom collapse on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, filmed by Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko.
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with Michèle Curtaz and Federico Camangi.
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
27/02/2020 - Alpinism
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
The video of Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada, established earlier this month by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl. This is the first climb ever to be graded WI 13 and as such checks in as the hardest ice climb in the world.
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
10/02/2020 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
Buildering in Edinburgh: Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has climbed a perfect hand crack below a bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.

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