62 News found

11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

14/12/2016 - Alpinism
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern The report by Vittorio Messini who together with Isidor Poppeller and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of 'Mehr denn je Hintersee' (800m, M7+ WI6+ 08/12/2016), a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Hochbirghöhe (2767m), High Tauern, Austria.

13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.

10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.

26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.

13/11/2015 - Alpinism
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley James Monypenny reports about the attempt, carried out together with Max Fisher to climb Tangra Tower (5,620m) situated in Khane Valley in Pakistan's Karakoram in memory of Cory Hall.

29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering

25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain of North America" from the North via East col and...

04/06/2015 - Alpinism
Jon Griffith and Will Sim make alpine-style first ascent of NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska British alpinists Jon Griffith and Will Sim have made the first ascent of Bad to the Bone, the first route to climb the NW Face of Mt Deborah in Alaska.

01/06/2015 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr claim unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska On 17/05/2015 Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska via their North Face route Sugar Man (M7, 85°, A1, 750m).

06/08/2014 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation Le Bombardier (30m, WI 6-). The report by Anna Torretta.

13/02/2014 - Alpinism
BMC International Winter Meet 2014, the report by Tito Arosio Tito Arosio from Italy reports about the BMC International Winter Climbing Meet that took place in Scotland from 26 January to 2 February 2014.

21/12/2013 - Alpinism
Nepal new climbs by Christopher Wright and Scott Adamson In October in Nepal's Khumbu region American alpinists Scott Adamson and Christopher Wright have made the first ascent of Open Fire (V WI5 M3 1000m) and one called Purgation (VI WI6+ M6 1100m).

09/12/2013 - Alpinism
Ermanno Salvaterra and the Torre Egger attempt in Patagonia Italian alpinist Ermanno Salvaterra recounts his recent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, carried out with Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra in November. During the last expedition days Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the difficult and frightening Ruleta Trentino...
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