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Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
20/07/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and...
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
A five-week climbing trip in June and July 2018 to the Hindu Raj mountain range in Pakistan resulted in the probable first ascent of Kachqiant, a 5990m peak overlooking the Dasbar Valley, by Dutch mountaineers Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher. Climbing partners Ruud Rotte and Menno Schokker made an unsuccessful...
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.
Ciao Monica
18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica
Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
15/07/2018 - Alpinism
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
10/07/2018 - Alpinism
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson reports about his repeat of El Ojo Critico, the difficult multi-pitch trad climb ascended in Spain’s Ordesa National Park by Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi in 2007 and repeated previously only by Unai Mendia and Iker Madoz. Belayed by Caroline Ciavaldini, Pearson managed to onsight...
Cjanevate 150 and Arrampicarnia 2018, the great climbing meeting in the Carnic Alps
03/07/2018 - Events
Cjanevate 150 and Arrampicarnia 2018, the great climbing meeting in the Carnic Alps
From 13 to 15 July 2018 Passo di Monte Croce Carnico in the Carnic Alps, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, will host the historic climbing meeting Arrampicarnia. The event will also celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of Crete delle Chianevate. Three days of rock climbing, encounters, courses, walks,...
Innominata Ridge Speed: Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli race up Mont Blanc
30/06/2018 - Alpinism
Innominata Ridge Speed: Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli race up Mont Blanc
Denis Trento reports about his fast ascent of the Innominata Ridge, carried out with Robert Antonioli in just 6 hours and 10 minutes. Although undoubtedly a fast ascent, the climb is interesting above all because, climbing as a roped team, they ascended with an increased safety margin
Denali Light Traveller, second ascent in Alaska by Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessy
29/06/2018 - Alpinism
Denali Light Traveller, second ascent in Alaska by Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessy
Sam Hennessy reports about the second ascent of Light Traveller, one of the most difficult climbs on Denali, Alaska, first ascended by Stephen Koch and Marko Prezelj in 2001 and repeated now, alpine style, together with Michael Gardner in a 36-hour push.
Reinhold Messner at Arco Rock Legends / All the climbing Oscar nominations
29/06/2018 - Events
Reinhold Messner at Arco Rock Legends / All the climbing Oscar nominations
On Friday 27 July 2018 the Arco Rock Legends sport climbing Oscars will celebrate its XIII edition awarding the prestigious Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafil to Reinhold Messner. Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra have been nominated for the Wild Country Rock Award, while Romain Desgranges, Janja Garnbret, Reza...
Legendary Aiguille Verte Nant Blanc face skied by Paul Bonhomme and Vivian Bruchez
Legendary Aiguille Verte Nant Blanc face skied by Paul Bonhomme and Vivian Bruchez
On 19 June 2018 Paul Bonhomme and Vivian Bruchez made a rare ski descent of the mythical NW Face of Aiguille Verte, also referred to as Nant Blanc, in the Mont Blanc massif.
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
19/06/2018 - Interviews
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
Hansjörg Auer to attempt Lupghar Sar West solo
13/06/2018 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer to attempt Lupghar Sar West solo
Interview with Austrian mountaineer Hansjörg Auer on the eve of his departure for Lupghar Sar West, a 7181m high mountain in the Karakorum, Pakistan which he plans to climb solo.
Rock climbing in Jordan: new rock climbs at Wadi Sulam
12/06/2018 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Jordan: new rock climbs at Wadi Sulam
Maurizio Oviglia reports about an expedition of the Italian Alpine Club and the JTB (Jordan Tourism Board) which resulted in series of new climbs in the unexplored area of ​​Wadi Sulam in Jordan. Expedition members included Maurizio Giordani, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Andrea Cattarossi, Marco Scagnetto, Luca Schiera, Umberto Del Vecchio, Erik...
Luka Lindič & Ines Papert: safe and sound after Shishapangma avalanche
02/06/2018 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Ines Papert: safe and sound after Shishapangma avalanche
During the acclimatisation phase prior to Shishapangma in Tibet Slovenia’s Luka Lindič and the Germany’s Ines Papert miraculously escaped an avalanche on Nyanang Ri.
Laila Peak first integral ski descent by Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein
Laila Peak first integral ski descent by Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein
French skiers Carole Chambaret, Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein have made the coveted first ski descent from the summit of Laila Peak (6096m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. A few days later Italy’s Cala Cimenti and Switzerland’s Matthias Koenig made the second descent of the stunning NW Face from the summit.

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