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Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
14/12/2020 - Climbing
Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
The film Makatea Vertical Adventure by Guillaume Broust that documents the birth of climbing on the remote island of Makatea in French Polynesia.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
28/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
French rock climber Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of another Fred Rouhling 1990’s testpiece, De l’autre Côté du Ciel at Les Eaux Claires.
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
18/11/2020 - Climbing
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
German climber Josef Pfnür has made the first repeat of Stone Age, established by Thomas Huber on Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany in 2019
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
16/11/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of the 8C boulder problem La Force Tranquille Direct.
Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across Dolomites
11/11/2020 - Alpinism
Campanile di Val Montanaia historic bell rings again across Dolomites
After being damaged by lightning in 2019, the bronze bell on the summit of Campanile di Val Montanaia in the Friuli Dolomites has been replaced by the CAI of Pordenone after a crowdfunding campaign.