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K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2: Nepalese mountaineers claim historic first winter ascent
Today, Saturday 16 January 2021 at 16:58 local time, a team of 10 Nepalese mountaineers completed the highly coveted first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world and the last 8000er to be climbed in the coldest season. News of the successful summit was provided by...
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
05/01/2021 - Climbing
Farewell to George Whitmore, pioneer of The Nose on El Capitan
American rock climber George Whitmore has died at the age of 89. Together with Wayne Merry and Warren Harding he made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958.
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
31/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
31/12/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Super Crackinette 9a+ at Saint Léger
Switzerland’s Cédric Lachat has climbed his seventh 9a+, Super-Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
30/12/2020 - Climbing
Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger
Watch the video of German climber Alexander Megos sending the 8C boulder problems Dreamtime and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano in Switzerland.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
German rock climber Alexander Huber frees Highway, a 30-year project established by Thomas Schäfer and Norbert Wich on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
K2 Winter, Tamara Lunger joins attempt of historic first winter ascent
23/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Tamara Lunger joins attempt of historic first winter ascent
South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger announced a two days ago that she too will attempt to climb K2 in winter. The second highest mountain in the world is the last 8000er unclimbed during the harshest season.
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.