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Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with Michèle Curtaz and Federico Camangi.
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
18/02/2020 - Interviews
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
Interview with 29-year-old German mountaineer Fabian Buhl who on 7 February flew off Cerro Torre in Patagonia with his paraglider.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
China Climbing World Cups rescheduled due to Coronavirus
13/02/2020 - Competitions
China Climbing World Cups rescheduled due to Coronavirus
As a precautionary measure the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) has announced that following the Coronavirus outbreak the sport climbing World Cups due to take place at Chongqing and Wujiang in April have been rescheduled.
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
Will Bosi climbs his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain
05/02/2020 - Climbing
Will Bosi climbs his first 9b, La Capella at Siurana in Spain
21-year-old William Bosi has climbed La Capella at Siurana in Spain today. In doing so he has sent his first 9b sports climb.
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
04/02/2020 - Alpinism
Rochers de Gagnières, Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet add mixed climb to Chablais Alps
On 25/01/2020 alpinists Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet made the first ascent of Fury Road (600m, M6 WI6 45°), a new mixed climb up the north face of the Rochers de Gagnières, not far from the Dent du Midi mountain range in the Chablais Alps in Switzerland. Chatelan report.
Laghel off-limits at Arco
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Laghel off-limits at Arco
Climbing is currently forbidden at Laghel in Arco, one of the most difficult crags in Italy and in the world.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has skied Linea senza frontiere, a new steep ski descent down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Bonhomme, who ascended the same line he later skied, reports.
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
On 05/12/2019 Martin Giovanazzi and Vincenzo Mascaro made what is likely to be the first ski descent down the NE Face of Monte Fibion ​​in the Brenta Dolomites. They have called the gully they skied Canale del Boomerang.
Martin Zhor completes record-breaking Aconcagua ascent
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Martin Zhor completes record-breaking Aconcagua ascent
At the end of December 2019 Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor raced to the summit of Aconcagua (6962m) in just 3 hours, 38 minutes and 17 seconds. In doing so he has set a new record for the journey from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp to the top.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
On 08/01/2020 Davide Capozzi and Alessandro Letey descended Trident de Comboé in the Aosta Valley, Italy. This may well be the first ski and snowboard descent of the exposed West Face. Capozzi provides the details.
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports