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Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
Trident de Comboé in Aosta Valley skied by Davide Capozzi, Alessandro Letey
On 08/01/2020 Davide Capozzi and Alessandro Letey descended Trident de Comboé in the Aosta Valley, Italy. This may well be the first ski and snowboard descent of the exposed West Face. Capozzi provides the details.
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer spring up Seitensprung in Langental, Dolomites
On 27/12/2019 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of Seitensprung, a new ice climb in Val Lietres - Langental, Dolomites.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Angelika Rainer settles the score, sends Ironman at Eptingen
31/12/2019 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer settles the score, sends Ironman at Eptingen
South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer has repeated Ironman, the total dry tooling route at Eptingen in Switzerland.
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
27/12/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
18/12/2019 - Alpinism
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
Climbing videos: Tomoa Narasaki Decided, Ryuichi Murai United, Giuliano Cameroni Legacy
05/12/2019 - Climbing
Climbing videos: Tomoa Narasaki decided, Ryuichi Murai United, Giuliano Cameroni Legacy
Three videos of recent hard sends: Tomoa Narasaki flashes decided and, on the same boulder at Mizugaki in Japan, Ryuichi Murai adds the the low start to create United. Finally Giuliano Cameroni on Legacy at Rocklands in South Africa.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen
03/12/2019 - Alpinism
Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen
The short film about Lydia Bradey, the mountaineer from New Zealand who in 1988 became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.
Tomoa Narasaki flashes Decided, 8B+ boulder problem in Japan
02/12/2019 - Climbing
Tomoa Narasaki flashes decided, 8B+ boulder problem in Japan
Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki has made a flash ascent of decided, an 8B+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan.
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
Winter climbing in Scotland has begun in earnest with the first ascent of Local Hero at An Teallach by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans, Markus Dorfleitner, Christian Schlesener and Moritz Attenberger have established a new route up Grundtvigskirken (1977m) in Greenland. The entire German expedition was carried out by fair means.
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.