Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites

I’ve ventured into Val Pramper on countless occasions, either to go ice climbing, ski mountaineering, accompanying clients and friends, but everything I do in there is on the right side of the valley, while the left is overshadowed by the 300m forgotten wall called Petorgnon.

I believed there weren’t any climbs there possibly due to the poor rock quality but, armed with a drill, Fulvio Trentini and I decided to check it out. We established the first three pitches on black rock that was so compact it didn’t even seem like Dolomite, and we soon realised that close to home I had a huge, completely untouched wall on which to establish new climbs ground-up.

The second part of the wall changes angle, and after the first four slabby pitches the wall starts to overhang by about 20 degrees. Much to our surprise, in the middle of this there’s almost perfect splitter crack, about 30 meters high; I decided to climb it trad, because bolting it would have been a sacrilege. At the end of this pumpy crack the route continues up pocketed grey rock to reach a terrace with splendid views over the whole valley.

I hope this new route will encourage others to come to Val Pramper not only in winter, and also to establish new lines here.

I’d like to thank my climbing partners Fulvio and Santiago; and thanks to Tuttosport Longarone and Salewa for providing the gear.

Climb safely!
Daniele Geremia Mountain Guide, www.mountainfree.net

TOPO: Multicolor, Monte Petorgnon, Val Pramper, Dolomiti di Zoldo