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Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Stralasegne, new mixed climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino, Dolomites
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Stralasegne, new mixed climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino, Dolomites
On 20 and 21 December 2015 Renzo Corona and Flavio Piccinini made the first ascent of Stralasegne (500m, M5 and 1 section M6) a new mixed alpine climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino (Pale San Martino range, Dolomites). The report by Renzo Corona.
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
24/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge of Chomochior (6278m) in Indian Kashmir Himalayas.
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
29/10/2015 - Alpinism
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
On Saturday 18 October 2015 a group of Icelandic and Slovenian climbers joined forces to climb six peaks in the Kamnik - Savinja Alps in memory of their Jure Breceljnik who died last July aged 41, in order to raise funds for Jure's baby daughter Ela Breceljnik and her mother...
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
27/10/2015 - Alpinism
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain of North America" from the North via East col and...
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
17/08/2015 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites.
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
The Nose on El Capitan via Google Street View
24/06/2015 - Climbing
The Nose on El Capitan via Google Street View
Today Google released a Street View version of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite along with climbers Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold and Lynn Hill.
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
16/06/2015 - Alpinism
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
From 2 to 3 June 2015 Paolo Baroldi, Francesco Salvaterra and Alessio Tait made the first ascent of a new rock climb up the East Face of Monte Bianco di Presanella. The new route is called Il Male di Vivere (300m , 45° M 7a+ (VIII+) R3), has been described...

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