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Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
27/10/2015 - Alpinism
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain of North America" from the North via East col and...
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
17/08/2015 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites.
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
The Nose on El Capitan via Google Street View
24/06/2015 - Climbing
The Nose on El Capitan via Google Street View
Today Google released a Street View version of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite along with climbers Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold and Lynn Hill.
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
16/06/2015 - Alpinism
Monte Bianco di Presanella and the new rock climb Il Male di Vivere
From 2 to 3 June 2015 Paolo Baroldi, Francesco Salvaterra and Alessio Tait made the first ascent of a new rock climb up the East Face of Monte Bianco di Presanella. The new route is called Il Male di Vivere (300m , 45° M 7a+ (VIII+) R3), has been described...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
10/06/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
In mid-April 2015 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made an alpine style first ascent of the NE ridge of the North tower of Devils Paw, Alaska via their new route Black Roses.
Langkofel Esposito - Butta, first winter ascent in the Dolomites by Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth
26/05/2015 - Alpinism
Langkofel Esposito - Butta, first winter ascent in the Dolomites by Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth
From 18 to 20 February 2015 Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth made the first winter ascent of Via Esposito - Butta up the North Face of Langkofel, Dolomites.
Cima Tuckett, classic ski mountaineering in the Ortles Cevedale massif
Cima Tuckett, classic ski mountaineering in the Ortles Cevedale massif
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi introduces Cima Tuckett (3462m), the classic ski touring itinerary in the Stelvio National Park, Ortles - Cevedale massif, Italy.
Tom Ballard film teasers
12/05/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard film teasers
Two teasers from the docu-film Tom, dedicated to British alpinist Tom Ballard who became the first to solo climb, in the same winter season, the six great North Faces of the Alps: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit Dru and the Eiger.
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
The 'behind the scenes' insight written by Marco Spataro, one of the many mountain guides and pros involved in safety preparations of the twentieth edition of Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa, won last Saturday by Michele Boscacci, Matteo Eydallin and Damiano Lenzi and by Emelie Forsberg,...
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
20/04/2015 - Competitions
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
The XX Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition in the Monte Rosa massif, takes place on 25 April 2015. Marco Spataro reports.
Tom Ballard and the Eiger - a hard day's winter
27/03/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and the Eiger - a hard day's winter
British mountaineer Tom Ballard reports about his recent ascent of the Eiger that crowned his Starlight and Storm project to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, alone and in just one season: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit Dru and the...
Red Bull X-Alps 2015 route revealed
20/03/2015 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2015 route revealed
On 5 July the Red Bull X-Alps 2015 gets underway, the world's most spectacular adventure race across 6 different countries and via a 1000km course on foot or by paraglider.
Tom Ballard climbs the six North Faces of the Alps in winter!
20/03/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard climbs the six North Faces of the Alps in winter!
With his ascent of the Eiger yesterday, Tom Ballard has now completed his Starlight and Storm project to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, alone and in just one season: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit Dru and the Eiger.