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Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
30/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
19/09/2016 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
Roger Schaeli repeats Eiger North Face La vida es silbar
16/09/2016 - Climbing
Roger Schaeli repeats Eiger North Face La vida es silbar
Climbing together with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Robert Schaeli has carried out what is believed to be only the second free ascent of the 'La vida es silbar' up the legendary north face of the Eiger, Switzerland. Established in 1998-99 by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, the 900m line was freed in...
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
15/09/2016 - Alpinism
Val Masino, new Mongolfiera rock climb in memory of Pietro Biasini
On the Mongolfiera face (Val Masino, Italy) Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri have made the first ascent of 'Pana' (8b, 265m). The route is named in honour of Pietro Biasini.
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
12/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
On Sunday 11 September 770 runners set off from Courmayeur for the 7th Tor des Geants, considered the most difficult mountain race in the world. This extraordinary challenge in the heart of the four giants of the Alps: 330km long and 24.000 meter elevation gain across Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Cerro Torre solo winter attempt, Markus Pucher stops 40 meters below summit
08/09/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre solo winter attempt, Markus Pucher stops 40 meters below summit
Climbing along the Ragni route, on 3 September 2016 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher climbed to within 40m of the summit of Cerro Torre during his attempt to carry out the first winter solo ascent of this iconic mountain in Patagonia.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
Greenland big wall climbing: Apostel Tommelfinger West Face climbed by international team
02/09/2016 - Alpinism
Greenland big wall climbing: Apostel Tommelfinger West Face climbed by international team
Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber, Fabio Lupo, Jérôme Sullivan and Antoine Moineville have made the first ascent of Metrophobia (ice 120°, A2+, 7a), a 1700m new big wall climb on Apostel Tommelfinger in Southern Greenland. The new route is believed to be the first up the West Face of the 2315m...
Civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
30/08/2016 - Alpinism
Civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
From 24 - 25 August 2016 the alpinists Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of ‘Dirty Harry’ (VII, 1375m), a huge new rock climb up the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites.
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
22/08/2016 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.

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