429 News found

04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...

03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia) Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...

22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.

18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.

13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...

11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Stralasegne, new mixed climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino, Dolomites On 20 and 21 December 2015 Renzo Corona and Flavio Piccinini made the first ascent of Stralasegne (500m, M5 and 1 section M6) a new mixed alpine climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino (Pale San Martino range, Dolomites). The report by Renzo Corona.

16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani

15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...

24/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge of Chomochior (6278m) in Indian Kashmir Himalayas.

05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...

29/10/2015 - Alpinism
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia On Saturday 18 October 2015 a group of Icelandic and Slovenian climbers joined forces to climb six peaks in the Kamnik - Savinja Alps in memory of their Jure Breceljnik who died last July aged 41, in order to raise funds for Jure's baby daughter Ela Breceljnik and her mother...

27/10/2015 - Alpinism
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.

29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering

25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain of North America" from the North via East col and...

17/08/2015 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites.

23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
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