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Civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
30/08/2016 - Alpinism
Civetta / New Dolomites climb by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski
From 24 - 25 August 2016 the alpinists Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of ‘Dirty Harry’ (VII, 1375m), a huge new rock climb up the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites.
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
22/08/2016 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge
On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
21/08/2016 - Alpinism
The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
22/06/2016 - Alpinism
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
Alpinism: from 8 - 9 June 2016 the Italian alpinists Nicola Binelli, Luca Cornella, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini climbed the virgin East Pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in the Indian Himalaya.
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
21/06/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
Mont Blanc Major Route: ski descent by Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano
On 6 May 2016 the mountain guides from Courmayeur Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra Dano skied the Major Route down the East Face of Mont Blanc. Theirs is only the second descent of this line in 37 years, after the first descent carried out by Stefano de Benedetti on 7...
Nanga Parbat film - Reinhold Messner, Günther Messner and choices
12/05/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat film - Reinhold Messner, Günther Messner and choices
PlayAlpinismo films: Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is the story of Reinhold and Günther Messner, of their great first ascent of the Nanga Parbat Rupal Face, of a tragedy and how a mountain can mark someone's destiny. The film review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...

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