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Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in Val Masino (Italy).
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Stralasegne, new mixed climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino, Dolomites
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Stralasegne, new mixed climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino, Dolomites
On 20 and 21 December 2015 Renzo Corona and Flavio Piccinini made the first ascent of Stralasegne (500m, M5 and 1 section M6) a new mixed alpine climb up the North Face of Pala di San Martino (Pale San Martino range, Dolomites). The report by Renzo Corona.
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
24/11/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar and Chomochior, new climbs in the Himalaya by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge of Chomochior (6278m) in Indian Kashmir Himalayas.
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
29/10/2015 - Alpinism
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
On Saturday 18 October 2015 a group of Icelandic and Slovenian climbers joined forces to climb six peaks in the Kamnik - Savinja Alps in memory of their Jure Breceljnik who died last July aged 41, in order to raise funds for Jure's baby daughter Ela Breceljnik and her mother...