429 News found

The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.

The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.

On 21/02/2013 Colin Haley and Sarah Hart made the first ascent of the West Face of Mojon Rojo via their El Zorro (700m, 5.10, A1).

On 14/01/2013 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher soloed the Via dei Ragni on Cerro Torre in  Patagonia in a lightening fast time of 3 hours 15 minutes from his bivouac below the Colle della Speranza... Pucher's story and our interview.

Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj from Slovenia have made the first ascent of The Real Kekec, an important new route up Pilar Goretta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).

On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

In October 2012 British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.

In August 2012 a Bulgarian expedition comprised of Doychin Boyanov, Tervel Kerelov, Michail Michailov and Nikolay Petkov made the first ascents of Levski Peak (5733m) and Grey Tower (5435m) in the Khane Valley, Pakistan.

Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Ralf Weber have successfully climbed Cerro Stanhardt, the northermost summit of Patagonia's Cerro Torre group, in winter and in alpine style via the classic Exocet route.

Slovenian alpinists Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic have repeated Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont Blanc on-sight in 32 hours.

On 17 May Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and David Göttler reached the summit of Nuptse (7861m) via the long and difficult North Ridge Scott route. A beautiful and testing climb, far removed from the nearby crowds at Everest.

The videos of the six ascents nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2012, awarded to the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar for their ascent of K7 West (Pakistan) and the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson for their ascent of Torre Egger (Patagonia) by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole...

The Piolet d'Or 2012 was awarded to two ascents, K7 West in Pakistan climbed by the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, and Saser Kangri II in India climbed by the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson. The ascent of Torre Egger in Argentina by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and...