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K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
02/01/2021 - Alpinism
Phoenix added to Hochbrunner Schneid in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
German rock climber Alexander Huber frees Highway, a 30-year project established by Thomas Schäfer and Norbert Wich on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Adam Ondra and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The final countdown
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Adam Ondra and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The final countdown
Almost perfect conditions at Margalef in Spain as Adam Ondra continues his attempts on the 9b+ Perfecto Mundo.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
14/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli have established Egidius, a new mixed climb on the north face of Gross Ruchen (3137m) in the Glarus Alps in Switzerland. Arnold had previously attempted the line with Stephan Ruoss in 2009.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Amore Supercombo on Pizzo Badile climbed by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
09/12/2020 - Alpinism
Amore Supercombo on Pizzo Badile climbed by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 27/11/2020 Marcel Schenk and David Hefti climbed Amore Supercombo, a variation of the mixed climbs Amore di Vetro and Nordest Supercombo on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. The line was repeated three days later by Corrado Pesce, Andrea Di Donato and Michael Wohlleben.
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
18/11/2020 - Climbing
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
German climber Josef Pfnür has made the first repeat of Stone Age, established by Thomas Huber on Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany in 2019
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.

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