Home page Planetmountain.com
Dani Arnold establishing Egidius up the North Face of Gross Ruchen in Switzerland together with and Roger Schäli on 21/11/2020
Photo by Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli
Roger Schäli making the first ascent of Egidius up the North Face of Gross Ruchen in Switzerland (21/11/2020)
Photo by Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli
Roger Schäli and Dani Arnold on the summit of Gross Ruchen in Switzerland on 21/11/2020 after the first ascent of and establishing Egidius up the mountain's north face
Photo by Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli
Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli establishing Egidius up the North Face of Gross Ruchen in Switzerland (21/11/2020)
Photo by Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli

Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland

by

Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli have established Egidius, a new mixed climb on the north face of Gross Ruchen (3137m) in the Glarus Alps in Switzerland. Arnold had previously attempted the line with Stephan Ruoss in 2009.

Switzerland’s Brunnital is dominated by Gross Ruchen, the 3137m peak with its imposing north face up which on 28 November Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli completed Egidius. The new 1300m mixed route was climbed by the Swiss mountaineers past WI6+/M7+ difficulties. Arnold had attempted the line in 2009 with Stephan Ruoss but turned back at characteristic "Little Cathedral" cave at mid-height, and succeeded this year with Schäli after three days of preparation.

Writing to planetmountain.com, Arnold stated: "Egidius is a very logical line on the righthand side of Gross Ruchen’s north face. On the lower section it initially follows the Pucher route. The crux sections are located in the middle of the face; the "Little Cathedral" and "Big Cathedral" offer a few few pitches of varied and modern ice and mixed climbing, while the rest provides classic north face terrain.

Up to the "Big Cathedral" we placed a bolt at every belay, meaning that a retreat up to there is always possible. Nuts, cams, ice screws and a few pegs were used as pro on the pitches, while bolts protect some of the cruxes. The route varies greatly depending on the conditions. Patience, a lot of motivation and sufficient mountaineering skills will be needed for a repeat..."

Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli rank among the strongest alpinists in the world and, interestingly, this is only  the first time they have climbed a big mountain route together.


Links
Arnold: www.daniarnold.chMammutPetzlLa Sportiva, Victorinox
Schäli: rogerschaeli.chLa SportivaPetzl

 

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Dani Arnold Expedition Baikal film première tonight at 20

17.11.2020
Dani Arnold Expedition Baikal film première tonight at 20

Tonight at 20:00 CET the première of the film Expedition Baikal that documents the expedition carried out by Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold to Lake Baikal in the heart of Siberia.
Nina Caprez, Sean Villanueva, Roger Schäli climb Eiger Merci La Vie
04.10.2019
Nina Caprez, Sean Villanueva, Roger Schäli climb Eiger Merci La Vie
Last summer an all-star team of climbers comprised of Nina Caprez, Sean Villanueva and Roger Schäli established a difficult new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Dani Arnold, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai free solo speed interview
30.09.2019
Dani Arnold, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai free solo speed interview
Interview with Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold after the ropeless ascent of via Comici - Dimai up Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
Dani Arnold makes swift free solo climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
26.09.2019
Dani Arnold makes swift free solo climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On 5 September 2019 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold made a free solo ascent of the Comici - Dimai route up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo massif, Dolomites, in just 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
13.04.2019
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.
Roger Schäli and Bernd Rathmayr add new mixed climb to Kandersteg
10.03.2019
Roger Schäli and Bernd Rathmayr add new mixed climb to Kandersteg
Swiss alpinists Roger Schäli and Bernd Rathmayr have made the first ascent of Fäderliecht, a new mixed climb at Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Dani Arnold climbing Helmcken Falls Power Shrimps
27.10.2018
Dani Arnold climbing Helmcken Falls Power Shrimps
The video of Dani Arnold climbing Power Shrimps, the ice climb he freed in February 2018 ay Helmcken Falls in Canada.
Dani Arnold interview after 2-hour 4-minute Grandes Jorasses Cassin Route ascent
16.08.2018
Dani Arnold interview after 2-hour 4-minute Grandes Jorasses Cassin Route ascent
Interview with Swiss alpinist Daniel Arnold who on 27/07/2018 climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in a record-breaking 2 hours and 4 minutes.
Dani Arnold climbs the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 4 minutes
13.08.2018
Dani Arnold climbs the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 4 minutes
On 27 July 2018 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in just 2 hours and 4 minutes.
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
01.06.2018
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
Mountaineering in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: on 12 May Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss made the first ascent of Exile on Main Street, a 600 m line up Gross Grünhorn (4044 m).
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
03.03.2018
Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada
Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has established and freed Power Shrimps, a new ice climb at Helmcken Falls in Canada.
Dani Arnold free solo video of Beta Block Super up Breitwangfluh
24.01.2018
Dani Arnold free solo video of Beta Block Super up Breitwangfluh
The video of Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold who on 24 December 2017 made an audacious free solo climb up the icefall Beta Block Super on Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
03.01.2018
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
On 24 December 2017 the 33-year-old Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold made a free solo ascent of the icefall Beta Block Super up the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
13.04.2017
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb is called Schweizernase and shares the start of the Gogna-Cerruti route before continuing directly up through the enormous overhangs on the upper section of the face.
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
11.06.2015
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb NE Ridge of Devil's Paw North Tower in Alaska
In mid-April 2015 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made an alpine style first ascent of the NE ridge of the North tower of Devils Paw, Alaska via their new route Black Roses.
Dani Arnold climbs Matterhorn Schmid route in 1:46
01.05.2015
Dani Arnold climbs Matterhorn Schmid route in 1:46
On 22/04/2015 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold climbed the Schmid route on the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1 hour and 46 minutes, 10 minutes faster than previous record holder Ueli Steck in 2009.
Dani Arnold solos Crack Baby on Breitwangflue in 27 minutes and 13 seconds
04.04.2014
Dani Arnold solos Crack Baby on Breitwangflue in 27 minutes and 13 seconds
On Sunday 9 March Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold solo climbed Crack Baby up the Breitwangflue in Switzerland in a mere 27 minutes and 13 seconds.
Video: David Lama and Dani Arnold on Moose's Tooth in Alaska
23.01.2014
Video: David Lama and Dani Arnold on Moose's Tooth in Alaska
The video of the first ascent of Bird of Prey, established by David Lama and Dani Arnold from 12- 14 April 2013 up the Headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
24.04.2013
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
From 12 to 14 April 2013 the alpinists Dani Arnold and David Lama made the first ascent of Bird of Prey (1500m, 6a, M7+, 90°, A2) up the unclimbed headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.
Eiger speed record by Dani Arnold
22.04.2011
Eiger speed record by Dani Arnold
On 20/04/2011 Dani Arnold from Switzerland climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the EIger in 2 hours 28 minutes, setting a new speed record up this historic line.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer