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Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is it one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
01/05/2020 - Alpinism
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of Courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece
30/04/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece
29-year-old Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has repeated Weiße Rose, the historic 9a established by Alexander Huber at the Schleierwasserfall in 1994 and otherwise repeated only by Adam Ondra.
Matilda Söderlund sends her first 8B boulder, Armstrong assis at Nockeby in Sweden
27/04/2020 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund sends her first 8B boulder, Armstrong assis at Nockeby in Sweden
Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Armstrong assis at Nockeby. She is one of the few female climbers to climb 8B boulder and a 9a sports climb.
Climbing legends, the video of the first Arco Rock Legends
29/03/2020 - Climbing
Climbing legends, the video of the first Arco Rock Legends
The video dating back to 2006 introducing the climbers nominated for the historical first edition of Arco Rock Legends: Yuji Hirayama, Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla, Daniel Andrada, Josune Bereziartu, Angela Eiter, Flavio Crespi, Tomas Mrazek.
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
Hervé Barmasse has published 'Linea Continua’ on YouTube, the film about the new route he established on the South Face of the Matterhorn with his father Marco. First ascended in 2010, it is still unrepeated.
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
10/03/2020 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
In Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of two stunningly beautiful sport climbs, Simple Man 8c and Mojo Rising 8c+.
Stefano Ghisolfi: stay at home, it’s time to climb and let your imagination soar
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi: stay at home, it’s time to climb and let your imagination soar
Stefano Ghisolfi, one of the best sport climbers in the world, appeals to the climbing community to not underestimate the Coronavirus crisis and to stay at home as much as possible.
Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi sends Bügeleisen sit 8C in Maltatal
Stefan Scarperi from the South Tyrol, Italy, has repeated Bügeleisen sit, the 8C boulder problem in Maltatal, Austria, established in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Cerro Torre's immense rime ice mushroom avalanche
03/03/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre's immense rime ice mushroom avalanche
The video of the recent rime ice mushroom collapse on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, filmed by Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko.
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
03/03/2020 - Climbing
Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs
German rock climber Lena Müller has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung, the 8b/+ E9/E10 trad climb located at Bürser Platte, Austria freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
27/02/2020 - Alpinism
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
The video of Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada, established earlier this month by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl. This is the first climb ever to be graded WI 13 and as such checks in as the hardest ice climb in the world.
Jimmy Webb claims first repeat of Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona, Switzerland
26/02/2020 - Climbing
Jimmy Webb claims first repeat of Off the Wagon sit in Val Bavona, Switzerland
The video of American climber James Webb who made the first repeat of Off the Wagon sit, the 8C+/V16 boulder problem freed by Shawn Raboutou in Val Bavona, Switzerland in 2018.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.

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