Home page Planetmountain.com
Sagzahn Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria, first ascended in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger
Photo by Silvan Metz
Martin Feistl and David Bruder making the first repeat of Sagzahnverschneidung in the Valsertal, Austria
Photo by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
Martin Feistl and David Bruder making the first repeat of Sagzahnverschneidung in the Valsertal, Austria
Photo by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
Martin Feistl making the first repeat of Sagzahnverschneidung in the Valsertal, Austria with David Bruder on 07/11/2020. The route was established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Photo by Martin Feistl, David Bruder

Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder

di

On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.

The Valsertal close in Innsbruck in Austria was described in no uncertain terms by the late David Lama as “a fantastic winter playground” and it is here that he honed his craft on routes such Badlands (2012), Schiefer Riss and Sagwand Mittelpfeiler (2013), Nordverschneidung on Hohe Kirche (2013), Nord Pfeiler on Hohe Kirche (2018) and, earlier that year, Sagzahn-Verschneidung. This obvious corner separates Mt. Schrammacher from Sagwand and was breached after four attempts in February 2018 by Lama and Peter Mühlburger, who graded their 800m mixed outing M6/A2.

In the ensuing winters the line had been attempted unsuccessfully by other parties, adding to its formidable reputation, but on 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder kicked off the winter 2020/21 season in style with the first repeat and first free ascent, having encountered prime conditions and difficulties up to M6, WI 4.

Writing by email to planetmountain.com, Feistl explained "It almost felt like a sacrilege to start our season on a route David had tried four times, but after receiving a photo of the face from a friend, we couldn’t believe how much it had come into condition. The climbing reminded us of Pandora on Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites which we repeated and freed last winter, only shorter and less demanding. After 4 fairly long pitches on relatively detached ice but excellent gear on the rock and perfectly equipped belays, we simul-climbed another pitch and then continued without the ropes to the summit. Just as Lama thought he had underestimated the wall at first, in these conditions we had overestimated the line. Fortunately we encountered neither the brittle rock nor any wild techno climbing that Lama had had to deal with."

The 24-year-old student concluded "Finding a line like this one in such perfect conditions, being there with precisely the right climbing partner, at the right time and with the right fitness, that's what makes alpine ice climbing so special. It’s not something you can just push the button and consume at will."


David Lama: the Valsertal Sagzahn - Verschneidung

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
19.01.2020
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
In Valsertal (Zillertal Alps, Tyrol) Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.
David Lama: the Valsertal Sagzahn - Verschneidung video
23.01.2019
David Lama: the Valsertal Sagzahn - Verschneidung video
The video of the first ascent of Sagzahn-Verschneidung, a mixed climb established by David Lama and Peter Mühlburger in 2018 up Mt. Sagwand in Austria’s Valsertal.
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
27.03.2018
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
On 24/03/2018 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the solo first ascent of Nord Pfeiler, a new mixed climb up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in Valsertal, Austria.
David Lama climbs Sagzahn - Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria
01.03.2018
David Lama climbs Sagzahn - Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria
Alpinism in Austria: David Lama has completed the Sagzahn-Verschneidung in the Valsertal with Peter Mühlburger. The mixed route up the Sagwand is circa 800 meters high and graded M6/A2.
David Lama solos new climb on Hohe Kirche in Valsertal
12.12.2013
David Lama solos new climb on Hohe Kirche in Valsertal
On 8/12/2013 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the first ascent, solo, of Nordverschneidung (400m, 90°, WI4, M4/5, VI/VII) up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps, Austria.
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
14.06.2013
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
On 14 May David Lama soloed the Mittelpfeiler route (800m, M5) up Sagwand in the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps, Austria.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20.03.2013
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in 1947.
David Lama climbs Badlands solo, new route in the Valsertal
03.04.2012
David Lama climbs Badlands solo, new route in the Valsertal
On 31/03/2012 David Lama solo climbed the new route Badlands (700m, 6a M5 WI4 A1) up the unnamed face between Sagwand and Hohe Kirche in the Valsertal, Tyrol, Austria
Lama and Verhoeven create Desperation of the Northface,  Sagwand, Zillertal Alps
29.08.2008
Lama and Verhoeven create Desperation of the Northface, Sagwand, Zillertal Alps
David Lama from Austria and Jorg Verhoeven from Holland have carried out the first ascent of "Desperation of the Northface", an 820m line with difficulties up to 7b on the Sagwand (3227m) in the Zillertal Alps, Austria.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra