Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Sébastien Bouin is certainly the man of the moment and during his Vintage Rock Tour the 27-year-old has found the time not only to repeat some of France’s hardest sport climbs of the ’80’s and ’90’s, but also to add an interesting line for future generations.
Bouin’s latest is called Beyond integral, is located at the crag Pic Saint Loup and was bolted by local Fedric Ferraro. The 50m outing is comprised of a 9a+ start followed by a good rest and then a Font 8A+ bouldery crux. According to the Frenchman the result may warrant 9b/+, similar in terms of difficulty to La rage d'Adam which he freed in the Verdon Gorge in Spetember 2019, and Move which he repeated at Flatanger in Norway in June that year. Repeats and confirmation of the grade are needed, but at present Beyond Integral stands as one of the very few in France, and the world, of these difficulties.
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Close to home project : FA "Beyond integral" 9b/+ (5.15b/c) and "Terra Nova" 8c+ After days and days on the top of the north face of the Pic Saint Loup mountain, I am more than happy to make last Tuesday the FA of "Beyond integral" 9b/+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. I can't count how many times I went on the upper section trying to find a sequence. That's the FA privilege . This place means a lot to me. It's super cool to climb on the top of this beautiful mountain, dominating the valley. This 50 meters route is composed of two parts : a first 9a+ followed by a 8a+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, dropknees, hills, tuffas, crimps,... all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts. About the grade, it's hard to have a clear mind and to prononce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than "Move" or "La rage d'Adam". That's why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece I also did the FA of "Terra Nova" 8c+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. It's a nice line with a spicy end . Thank you Fed to add new lines there . This experience was special. At the beginning I thought I will not find the adventure I can find on a trip on a new area. Then, when I was involved in the process, I lived fully the adventure around my house. It was maybe more intense than a trip process. I rediscovered the Pic Saint Loup sector as it was a new crag. I enjoyed the walk to reach the top of that mountain. I rediscovered the warm up routes, and I was thinking of bolting new routes. There is always new adventures to live, even if you know really well the place. The video is coming in 2021, stay tuned Pic by @raphaelfourau ----------------------------------------- Première ascension : "Beyond integral" 9b/+ et "Terra Nova" 8c+ Après des jours et des jours dans cette face nord au sommet du Pic Saint Loup, je suis bien content de libérer mardi dernier le projet du moment "Beyond Integral" 9b/+, équipé par Fedric Ferraro. Texte complet en français sur ma page Facebook.