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Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
18/12/2019 - Alpinism
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.
Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif
France’s Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre have perished on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. The two were considered among the most talented mountaineers of their generation.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher establish Koasabluad up Wilder Kaiser
12/11/2019 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher establish Koasabluad up Wilder Kaiser
alpinists Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher have completed Koasabluad, a difficult multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria, where in 2014/2015 they established Südwind. Unterwurzacher reports.
New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
01/11/2019 - Alpinism
New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
Last summer Belluno alpinists Luca Vallata and Davide Cassol made the first ascent Capitani di Ventura, a big new multi-pitch climb that reaches the summit of Punta Civetta in the Dolomites. Established after four attempts, it breaches difficulties up to VIII-/A1 and tackles a line between Chimera Verticale and the...
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
23/10/2019 - Alpinism
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made a rare ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m) in Nepal. Climbing alpine style for 5 days, the duo established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed west face.
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
03/10/2019 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
Swiss climbers Marcel Schenk and David Hefti have climbed Via Nardella up Piz Badile, opened in 1973 by Daniele Chiappa, Giulio Martinelli, Tiziano Nardella and Elio Scarabelli in 1973. Hefti and Schenk onsighted all pitches, except for two which were climbed free by the second.
New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
01/10/2019 - Alpinism
New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini
Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascent of big new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Risht Peak first ascent in Pakistan's unexplored Yarkhun valley
05/09/2019 - Alpinism
Risht Peak first ascent in Pakistan's unexplored Yarkhun valley
Symon Welfringer reports about an expedition with fellow French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Pierrick Fine and Antoine Rolle to Yarkhun valley in Pakistan which resulted in the first ascent of Risht Peak (5960m) right at the end of the Risht glacier.
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
24/08/2019 - Alpinism
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
Symon Welfringer reports about his repeat, with fellow French alpinists Antonin Cechini and Aurélien Vaissière, of Colonne d’Ercole up the NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites. The 1200m route up Punta Tissi was first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini with difficulties up to IX and...
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.