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Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.
Anthony Gullsten sends his Silver Lining, 8C highball in Finland

25/04/2020 - Climbing
Anthony Gullsten sends his Silver Lining, 8C highball in Finland

Finnish rock climber Anthony Gullsten has made the first ascent of Silver Lining, a long-standing project at Piilolampi in Finland. The highball boulder problem has been graded 8C
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
20/04/2020 - Climbing
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Col du Brouillard SW Couloir, skiing above the lesser known part of the Miage Glacier
Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with Michèle Curtaz and Federico Camangi.
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has skied Linea senza frontiere, a new steep ski descent down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Bonhomme, who ascended the same line he later skied, reports.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Martin Zhor completes record-breaking Aconcagua ascent
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Martin Zhor completes record-breaking Aconcagua ascent
At the end of December 2019 Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor raced to the summit of Aconcagua (6962m) in just 3 hours, 38 minutes and 17 seconds. In doing so he has set a new record for the journey from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp to the top.
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Tomoa Narasaki flashes Decided, 8B+ boulder problem in Japan
02/12/2019 - Climbing
Tomoa Narasaki flashes Decided, 8B+ boulder problem in Japan
Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki has made a flash ascent of Decided, an 8B+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan.
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.
Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo control Kranj
30/09/2019 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo control Kranj
The fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2019 was won in Kranj, Slovenia, yesterday by Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo. Jessica Pilz and Kai Harada took silver, Lučka Rakovec and Alberto Ginés López bronze.
Squamish, Skywalker, and the sublime rock climbing in Canada
29/07/2019 - Alpinism
Squamish, Skywalker, and the sublime rock climbing in Canada
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Squamish, one of the world's foremost crack climbing areas, as well as Skywalker, a not too difficult multi-pitch rock climb still fairly unknown outside the borders of Canada.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...

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