882 News found

Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.

Interview with American rock climber Paul Robinson who recently managed to climb his 1000th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.

Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.

Sport climbing in Austria: Barbara Zangerl has repeated Unleashed 8c+ and Instructor 8c+/9a in her home Vorarlberg region.

Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.

Finnish rock climber Anthony Gullsten has made the first ascent of Silver Lining, a long-standing project at Piilolampi in Finland. The highball boulder problem has been graded 8C

The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.

Davide Capozzi introduces the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif, recently descended on snowboard and ski with Alessandro Letey. Also referred to as Voie du 1894, in 2016 Capozzi made the first known descent with Michèle Curtaz and Federico Camangi.

French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has skied Linea senza frontiere, a new steep ski descent down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Bonhomme, who ascended the same line he later skied, reports.

On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.

At the end of December 2019 Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor raced to the summit of Aconcagua (6962m) in just 3 hours, 38 minutes and 17 seconds. In doing so he has set a new record for the journey from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp to the top.

Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports

A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.

Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki has made a flash ascent of Decided, an 8B+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan.

Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.