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Banana Sprint, new mixed route up Grandes Murailles by Cazzanelli and Ferraris
18/03/2014 - Alpinism
Banana Sprint, new mixed route up Grandes Murailles by Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 14/03/2014 François Cazzanelli and Roberto Ferraris made the first ascent of Banana sprint, a 670m mixed line dedicated to Simona Hosquet up the SE Face of Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps). The summit was reached by following the the Normal route up Punta Sella, first climbed in 1877 by G....
Marco Anghileri has left us
17/03/2014 - Alpinism
Marco Anghileri has left us
Marco Anghileri 'Butch', 41 years old, great alpinist from Lecco and member of the Gamma climbing club, extremely well known, loved and held in high regard by the entire mountaineering world, has died on the Central Pillar of Mont Blanc. The body was recovered this morning by the Valle d'Aosta...
Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
15/03/2014 - Alpinism
Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
On 13 March Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi made the first free ascent and first winter ascent of Follie Belliche (330m, 7b+ max, 6c+ obl.), the route they established on 30/08 and 21/09/2013 up Cima Ceremana (Lagorai, Dolomites). The report by Rolando Larcher.
Erri De Luca interview. Observing the mountains #1
14/03/2014 - Interviews
Erri De Luca interview. Observing the mountains #1
Interview with Erri De Luca about his particular way of observing the mountains, from climbing to alpinism. By Marco Ferrario.
Extreme skiing in the Dolomites: Conturines West Face by Della Rossa e Nocker
Extreme skiing in the Dolomites: Conturines West Face by Della Rossa e Nocker
On Thursday 6 March 2014 Manuel Nocker and Fabrizio Della Rossa made what is probably the first ski descent of a new line down the beautiful and difficult West Face of Conturines, Dolomites (1400m, 1000 45-55°; AD E4). The report by Fabrizio Della Rossa.
Nanga Parbat: Pawel Dunaj and Michal Obrycki in hospital at Skardu
13/03/2014 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: Pawel Dunaj and Michal Obrycki in hospital at Skardu
The two Polish alpinists Pawel Dunaj and Michal Obrycki, injured on 08/03/2014 after being swept down the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat, have finally been taken to hospital at Skardu.
Avalanche on Nanga Parbat: two Polish alpinists injured and ready to be evacuated from BC
10/03/2014 - Alpinism
Avalanche on Nanga Parbat: two Polish alpinists injured and ready to be evacuated from BC
Near miss on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face: on Saturday afternoon, at circa 5000m, Polish alpinists Pawel Dunaj and Michal Obrycki were hit by an avalanche during their latest attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in winter.
Fitz Roy non stop: Simon Gietl and Gerhard Fiegl in Patagonia
05/03/2014 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy non stop: Simon Gietl and Gerhard Fiegl in Patagonia
The report by Simon Gietl about his fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia via the Supercanaleta route together with Gerhard Fiegl.
Paolo Rabbia and his great Pyrenees winter ski traverse
Paolo Rabbia and his great Pyrenees winter ski traverse
From 22 January to 19 February 2014 Paolo Rabbia skied across the Pyrenees. A great solitary adventure and an unforgettable journey.
Nanga Parbat in winter: Poles continue. Moro, Göttler and Nardi end expedition
02/03/2014 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter: Poles continue. Moro, Göttler and Nardi end expedition
The third attempt by Simone Moro, David Göttler, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Pawel Dunaj to summit Nanga Parbat in winter ended in failure. The Italian German expedition will now return home, as will Italy's Daniele Nardi who attempted to ascend the Diamir face. The Polish expedition remains, in the hope of...
Piolets d'Or 2014, the five nominations for the 22nd edition
27/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the five nominations for the 22nd edition
From the most remote mountains in Nepal and Pakistan to the frozen lands of Alaska, via the imposing Masherbrum massif and symbollic Annapurna. Five ascents, carried out by some of the world's most talented alpinists, are in the running for Piolets d'Or 2014, the most important mountaineering award that will...
Fred Nicole and Toni Lamprecht climb new boulder problems boulder in Patagonia
27/02/2014 - Climbing
Fred Nicole and Toni Lamprecht climb new boulder problems boulder in Patagonia
Fred Nicole from Switzerland and Toni Lamprecht from Germany have climbed a series of new boulder problems at El Chalten in Patagonia, including Larten 8B.
Lofoten islands 2013 - new rock climbs in Norway
26/02/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten islands 2013 - new rock climbs in Norway
The report by Helmut Gargitter about the 2013 climbing trip to the Lofoten islands in Norway, together with Simon Kehrer, Federico Pisani, Ivan Calderon and Fernando Gonzales Rubio.
Patagonia: Californiana Sit Start by the Ragni di Lecco
24/02/2014 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Californiana Sit Start by the Ragni di Lecco
The two Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo della Bordella, and Swissman Silvan Schüpbach have climbed what they have called the Californiana Sit Start, an enchainement of Aguja de la Silla with Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
20/02/2014 - Climbing
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuela.
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
18/02/2014 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
From 12 - 16 February 2014 the Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the coveted first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.