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Campitello di Fassa: less than 2 months to the European Climbing Championship
08/05/2017 - Competitions
Campitello di Fassa: less than 2 months to the European Climbing Championship
The countdown has begun to the European Climbing Championship, scheduled to take place from 29 June to 1 July 2017 at Campitello di Fassa, Italy. Val di Fassa will the Lead and Speed disciplines, as well as the Dolomiti Summer and Walking Festival and the traditional Dolomia meeting of historical...
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
04/05/2017 - Alpinism
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
In April 2017 Greg Boswell and Will Sim made the first ascent of two big new alpine climbs in the Central Alaskan Range: Beastiality up Bear's Tooth and Shark Fishing on a mountain on the opposite side of the Buckskin Glacier.
Ueli Steck's dream
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Adam Ondra repeats Lapsus at Andonno, second 9b in two days
21/04/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra repeats Lapsus at Andonno, second 9b in two days
Czech climber Adam Ondra has made the first repeat of Lapsus, the 9b sport climb freed by Stefano Ghisolfi at Andonno, Italy. This is Ondra’s second 9b in just two days, after his first ascent of Queen Line at Laghel (Arco). Ondra ended the day in style by making a...
Voluntarily recall Trango Vergo belay devices batch numbers 16159 and 16195
19/04/2017 - Climbing
Voluntarily recall Trango Vergo belay devices batch numbers 16159 and 16195
As of 14/04/2017 Trango has elected to voluntarily recall all Vergo belay devices in batch numbers 16159 and 16195 that were sold after 1 October 2016.
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports
XXI Mezzalama Trophy - live streaming of the Marathon of the Glaciers
14/04/2017 - Competitions
XXI Mezzalama Trophy - live streaming of the Marathon of the Glaciers
The XXI Trofeo Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition will take place on 22 April 2017, from Breuil-Cervinia to Gressoney in the Mont Blanc massif. The Mezzalama Jeunes will take place on 21 April and the competition will be screened online in live streaming.
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
13/04/2017 - Alpinism
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb is called Schweizernase and shares the start of the Gogna-Cerruti...
Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission against end to free livestream
12/04/2017 - Competitions
Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission against end to free livestream
We have received and publish an Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission, the body that provides a channel for communication between athletes and the IFSC Board, following the shock decision of the International Federation of Sport Climbing to put an end to free livestreaming of its climbing competitions.
Return to silence. Rock climbing in '90's according to Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane
10/04/2017 - Alpinism
Return to silence. Rock climbing in '90's according to Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane
When climbing resembles poetry: scenes from "Ritorno al silenzio”, the 1992 film about climbing in the Dolomites starring Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane.
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
07/04/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck on the eve of departure for Nepal where he will attempt to complete one of the most amitious projects in Himalayan mountaineering: the coveted first Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
At the end of March 2017 Denis Trento made what might well be the first integral ski descent of the SW Couloir of Pointe Whymper. The video and report of the Italian mountain guide and extreme skier about this ski descent which, in particular the final 400m, has probably never...
Tai chi and the other crack climbs at Su Sussiu Ulassai in Sardinia
04/04/2017 - Climbing
Tai chi and the other crack climbs at Su Sussiu Ulassai in Sardinia
The video by Maurizio Oviglia and Paolo Contini documenting Roberto Vigiani's onsight ascent of the famous crack climb Tai Chi, at Su Sussiu, Ulassai, Sardinia.
Michele Caminati and the shocking ground fall video
31/03/2017 - Climbing
Michele Caminati and the shocking ground fall video
The video of Italian climber Michele Caminati falling to the ground when his rope broke at the gritstone crag Curbar in England. Caminati miraculously walked away with only a broken wrist and heel.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).