Bletterbach, possible new icefall climbed by Ladurner and Lemayer

Ice climbing in Italy's South Tyrol: in the Bletterbach Gorge Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Eistänzer, a probable new 110 m high ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M6.
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Daniel Ladurner climbing Eistänzer in the sector Gorz at Bletterbach
Daniel Ladurner

Is it still possible, in 2018, to find ice that has never been climbed before? In a venue as beautiful and famous as Bletterbach, a narrow gorge at the foot of Mt. Corno Bianco in South Tyrol that forms part of the UNESCO Dolomites World Heritage? Quite possibly, according to research carried out by the highly active climbers Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer who recently climbed a line they have called Eistänzer in the Gorz sector of Bletterbach, right at the end of the canyon.

The possible new climb lies to the left of Zozza and was ascended after having repeated the classic Eisgeist. The climb is protected with ice screws only and is comprised of two extremely difficult pitches: the first is 60 meters high past WI5, while the second 50 meter pitch is circa WI6+ M6. It’s worth noting that Lemayer knows the Bletterbach like the back of his hand and has two other first ascents to his name, Gecko and Movieland.

In October 2017 the Ladurner - Lemayer partnership forged Gnadenlos on the NW Face of Ortler and Schattenspiel up the NE Face of Königsspitze, while in December 2016 the two established Pleishornwasserfall, an daring mixed climb up the NW Face of Ortler.

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