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Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Tengi Ragi Tau West Face new route in Nepal by Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
06/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengi Ragi Tau West Face new route in Nepal by Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A French / Swiss team comprised of Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer and Charles Noirot has climbed a difficult new route up the West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau in the Rowaling Himalaya in Nepal. Climbing alpine style from 26 - 29 October 2019, Schüpbach and Welfringer ascended their Trinité (1400m,...
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
23/10/2019 - Alpinism
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made a rare ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m) in Nepal. Climbing alpine style for 5 days, the duo established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed west face.
Koyo Zom West Face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton
09/10/2019 - Alpinism
Koyo Zom West Face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton
British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton have climbed the virgin west face of Koyo Zom (6877m), the highest mountain in the Hindu Raj range in Pakistan. The two were part of a greater expedition including John Crook, Uisdean Hawthorn and Will Sim.
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the North Face of Mount Phillips in the Canadian Rockies.
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
12/08/2019 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
Climbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.
Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II
02/08/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II
Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia
19/07/2019 - Alpinism
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia
Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
17/06/2019 - Alpinism
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.