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Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Jonathan Siegrist in Spain sends 9b again, La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario
10/05/2019 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist in Spain sends 9b again, La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario
US sport climber Jonathan Siegrist has climbed La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, the 9b freed by Adam Ondra and repeated so far by only Jakob Schubert and Angela Eiter.
Francesca Medici climbs her first 8c at Covolo, Italy
10/05/2019 - Climbing
Francesca Medici climbs her first 8c at Covolo, Italy
At the crag Covolo in Northern Italy, Francesca Medici has climbed Na Vida Nomada, her first 8c sports climb.
The best climber in the world: Marcel Rémy aged 96 attempts 6a multi-pitch
09/05/2019 - Alpinism
The best climber in the world: Marcel Rémy aged 96 attempts 6a multi-pitch
96-year-old Swiss alpinist Marcel Rémy has attempted to climb a 6a multi-pitch rock climb. Is he perhaps the best climber in the world. Andreas Kubin reports.
Janja Garnbret the Great commands in China, with Tomoa Narasaki
07/05/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret the Great commands in China, with Tomoa Narasaki
The fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 took place at Wujiang in China last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki from Japan. Akiyo Noguchi and Kai Horada placed second, Ai Mori and Jakob Schubert third
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
03/05/2019 - Alpinism
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports
Flawless perfection: Janja Garnbret and YiLing Song win in Chongqing in China
01/05/2019 - Competitions
Flawless perfection: Janja Garnbret and YiLing Song win in Chongqing in China
The third stage of the 2019 Bouldering World Cup took place last weekend in Chongqing in China and was won by Slovenian Janja Garnbret and France’s Manuel Cornu. The second stage of the Speed ​​World Cup was won on Friday evening by YiLing Song and Alfian Muhammad.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the women’s race.
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
On 20/04/2019 Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto Dallavalle skied the Northeast Face of Cima di Bon in the Adamello - Presanella group. This is likely to be the first ski descent.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler have made the first ascent of Moonshadow, a big new climb to the right of the famous Moonlight Buttress in Zion, USA.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.

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