Home page Planetmountain.com
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Photo by Read Macadam
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Photo by Read Macadam
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Photo by Read Macadam
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Photo by Vittorio Crobu

Aleksandra Taistra sends Sardinia's Hotel Supramonte

di

Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb deep within the Gole di Gorropu Gorge in Sardinia, first ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in 1998/99.

Poland’s Aleksandra Taistra has managed to repeat Hotel Supramonte in the Gorropu Gorge in Sardinia. Two decades after the ground-up first ascent in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, this 400m 8b continues to prove an irresistible draw for the best. After the first ascent, the other key climbs worth bearing in mind are: the first free ascent in 2000 at the hands of Pietro Dal Prà, the first female ascent carried out by Martina Cufar in 2004 and the first on-sight by Adam Ondra in 2008. And of course, the first rebolting, carried out by Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia in 2012…


Hotel Supramonte by Aleksandra Taistra

On Friday October 11th I managed to send all 11 pitches of Hotel Supramonte in the Gole di Gorropu without ever falling. It was an absolutely perfect, no-fall day.

I already knew the route from last spring, when I had really bad luck with conditions. This autumn the hardest part was finding a climbing partner willing to climb with me or support me. In the end I decided to travel to Sardinia on my own and with a little help from my friend Valter De Lucia, I placed some fixed ropes and practiced the crux pitches on my own. In the meantime I waited for someone to climb the route with.

In September I had the chance to climb with someone but the temperatures were so high that I wouldn’t really call what I did proper climbing… In October my boyfriend, who went to establish new sport climbing areas in Saudi Arabia, bought a ticket and convinced our friend Simone Papalia to come to Sardinia.  And on only our second day of climbing (with 2 days rest in between) I managed to make my dream come true, with a big smile on my face :-)

On the send day I climbed quite fast. I needed just 5 hours to climb the first 6 pitches (7b+, 7c+,8b, 8a+, 8b and 7c. These are followed by 7a+, 7b+, 7b and 7b. When I got to the last pitch things began to get a bit stressful. I had to climb the 50m 6b+, poorly protected by just 2 bolts, in complete darkness.

I got lost on the wall and tried to improve my trad skills. Simone provided me with some great support and gave me the strength I needed to climb each pitch and complete Hotel in a day. I’d like to thank him, and also Valter for fantastic support last season.

I never really imagined how much effort would be required to climb so many pitches in a row without giving up. I’d love to explain myself better, but it’s not easy to talk about feelings that everybody should experience on their own in order to fully comprehend what is needed in moments like these.

Links: www.alekstaistra.com, FB Aleksandra Taistra, IG Aleksandra Taistra, La Sportiva

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Mind Control at Oliana
20.02.2014
Aleksandra Taistra climbing Mind Control at Oliana
The video of Aleksandra Taistra interpreting Mind Control at Oliana in Spain
Aleksandra Taistra climbs Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar
08.10.2012
Aleksandra Taistra climbs Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar
This summer Polish sport climber Aleksandra Taistra sent Così Fan Tutte 8c+ at Rodellar, Spain.
Alexandra Taistra sends
27.04.2007
Alexandra Taistra sends
Aleksandra Taistra from Poland sends her third 8c, "Die Hard" at the Gabbio, Ferentillo, Italy.
Hotel Supramonte climbed in Sardinia by Lara Neumeier, Christoph Hanke, Jozef Kristoffy
09.06.2018
Hotel Supramonte climbed in Sardinia by Lara Neumeier, Christoph Hanke, Jozef Kristoffy
Lara Neumeier, Christoph Hanke and Jozef Kristoffy have all repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb first ascended in the Gole di Gorropu in Sardinia by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.
Silvio Reffo climbing up Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
05.03.2017
Silvio Reffo climbing up Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
The video of Italian climber Silvio Reffo repeating the famous multi-pitch sports climb Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu in Sardinia.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
30.10.2012
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same place as the original ones.
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
18.11.2016
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.
Barbara Zangerl climbing Hotel Supramonte
27.12.2011
Barbara Zangerl climbing Hotel Supramonte
The video of Barbara Zangerl climbing Hotel Supramonte (400m, 8b) at the Gola di Gorroppu, Sardinia.
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
16.06.2010
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
In mid-May Swiss climber Nina Caprez made a rare female ascent of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, a few days after an ascent by her boyfriend Cédric Lachat.
Adam Ondra, Open Air and Hotel Supramonte
21.11.2008
Adam Ondra, Open Air and Hotel Supramonte
Interview with Adam Ondra after the long-awaited second ascent of Open Air at the Schleierwasserfall and the first onsight of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia.
Adam Ondra, Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia and the climbing game
29.10.2008
Adam Ondra, Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia and the climbing game
Adam Ondra and his holidays in Sardinia, where he managed the first ever on-sight of "Hotel Supramonte" before making the first ascent of "Campo con corvi" 9a at Bronx.
Hotel Supramonte fast repeat by Christian Bindhammer and Damaris Knorr
03.07.2007
Hotel Supramonte fast repeat by Christian Bindhammer and Damaris Knorr
Christian Bindhammer and Damaris Knorr have repeated the multi-pitch Hotel Supramonte (8b) in the Gola di Gorroppu, Sardinia.
08.10.2004
Martina Cufar first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte
On September 28 Martina Cufar, together with Marko Lukic, made the first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia.
16.05.2002
Mauro Bubu Bole repeats Hotel Supramonte
The Italian Mauro Bubu Bole repeats Hotel Supramonte, together with Mi Sun Go in Sardinia
06.06.2001
Beat Kammerlander and Hotel Supramonte
On 15-16 May the Austrian Beat Kammerlander redpointed Hotel Supramonte at the Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Pietro Dal Prà climbing Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
09.11.2000
Pietro Dal Prà climbing Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
Climbing in Sardinia. Pietro dal Pra making the first free ascent of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia.
08.05.2001
Scassa and Sarti at Hotel... Supramonte
Severino Scassa and Simone Sarti climb Hotel Supramonte at P.ta Cucuttos, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
Pietro Dal Pra', first free ascent of Hotel Supramonte
09.11.2000
Pietro Dal Pra', first free ascent of Hotel Supramonte
On 3/11/2000, Pietro Dal Prà freed 'Hotel Supramonte', the route established by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in the Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia
14.04.2000
Stefan Glowacz repeats Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia
Sardinia's hardest multi-pitch route, "Hotel Supramonte" 8b, repeated by Stefan Glowacz

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra