239 News found
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
22/05/2019 - Climbing
The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth The film Statement of Youth / The Birth of British Sport Climbing directed by Nick Brown featuring Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon, Chris Gore, Andy Pollitt, Martin Atkinson, Mark Pretty, Craig Smith, Steve Lewis, Mark Leach, Ed Douglas.
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
07/02/2019 - Alpinism
Tigersoft, new winter climb in Brenta Dolomites Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: Simone Banal reports about the first ascent of Tigersoft, a new winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta established with Fabrizio Dellai and Marco Zanni.
27/01/2019 - Alpinism
Spontaneity, altruism and drama in Patagonia Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko....
16/01/2019 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič, Fabian Buhl add new climb to Cima Tosa, Brenta Dolomites Slovenia’s Luka Lindič and Germany’s Fabian Buhl have established Sau hladno!, a new mixed climb up Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites.
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
18/06/2018 - Alpinism
Janhukot first ascent in Indian Himalaya by British expedition British mountaineers Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg and Guy Buckingham have made the first ascent of Janhukot (6805m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.
29/03/2018 - Alpinism
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze In February 2018 Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze climbed alpine style for 8 days to establish a new route up Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m), Georgia. In doing so they also made the first winter ascent of the mountain’s 2300 m high South Face.
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