2537 News found

Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

Sport climbing: at Oliana in Spain Italy’s Laura Rogora has redpointed Joe Blau 8c+, while Stefano Ghisolfi has onsighted the 8c Fish Eye.

Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.

On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas and is the first bill that specifically acknowledges rock climbing...

On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...

Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.

Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated the famous highball boulder problem Ambrosia at Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.

On 16/12/2016 the two Swiss mountain guides David Hefti and Marcel Schenk climbed the ice and mixed combination 'Nordest supercombo' (800m, M7, R) a demanding line that joins Via Cassin with via Memento Mori up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Francesco Vascellari and Loris de Barba introduce '4000m Peaks in the Alps. Ski Touring and Steep Skiing', their guidebook to the 4000m mountains in the Alps. Three routes presented on planetmountain.com: Barre des Écrins, Pizzo Bernina and Dent d'Hérens.

Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Ultimatum, a 9a+ sports climb at Massone, Arco.

The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Durango, Colorado, USA, last weekend and was won by Russia’s Alexey Dengin and Korea’s Shin Woonseon. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev.

On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

Valdo Chilese reports about the highball boulder problem Rokaloka (8A+), first ascended last September on the Orkaloka boulder in Valle di Daone, Italy.

Climbing from 8 - 10 November 2016, the Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel completed the first ascent of the North Face of Gimmigela East (7005m), Nepal.