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Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
23/11/2016 - Climbing
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
A new multi-pitch rock climb at Capo d’Uomo, Argentario, Italy: Magnificat (6b+, 80m), first ascended by the Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi and dedicated to Roberto Iannilli.
New Catalan climbs in Nepal
22/11/2016 - Alpinism
New Catalan climbs in Nepal
Catalan mountaineers Oriol Baró, Roger Cararach and Santiago Padrós have climbed two new routes on Nepal’s 6000m peaks: 'Pilar Dudh Khunda' up the SSW arete of Karyolung (6511m) and 'Nepali Sun' which terminates at 6900m on the South Face of Numbur (6959m).
Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
15/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic has begun his single push ground up attempt to free climb the Dawn Wall, freed after 19 days by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
14/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes and Ashima Shiraishi all followed up their lead victories at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou by winning Gold in the Bouldering discipline. They were joined by Borna Cujic, Keita Dohi and Nathan Martin.
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
09/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
The World Youth Championships are currently being held at Guangzhou in China. The lead discipline was won by Ashima Shiraishi and Sam Avezou (Youth B), Janja Garnbret and Giorgio Bendazzoli (Youth A) and Margo Hayes and Simon Lorenzi (Juniors)
Tom Randall: Obsession
01/11/2016 - Climbing
Tom Randall: Obsession
The video portrait of British rock climber Tom Randall.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen
25/10/2016 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win lead World Cup in Xiamen
Last weekend the sixth stage of the lead World Cup 2016 took place in Xiamen, China, won by Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. While Klaudia Buczek and Stanislav Kokorin won the final stage of the Speed World Cup, overall season victory went to the Poles Iuliia Kaplina and...
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
19/10/2016 - Environment
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...

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