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Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
14/07/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
On 05/12/2019 Martin Giovanazzi and Vincenzo Mascaro made what is likely to be the first ski descent down the NE Face of Monte Fibion ​​in the Brenta Dolomites. They have called the gully they skied Canale del Boomerang.
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
12/12/2019 - Book-press
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker about his new book Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques
Dani Arnold, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai free solo speed interview
04/10/2019 - Interviews
Dani Arnold, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Comici - Dimai free solo speed interview
Interview with Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold after the ropeless ascent of via Comici - Dimai up Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 46 minutes and 30 seconds.
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra crowned Lead World Champions 2019
15/08/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra crowned Lead World Champions 2019
Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic extended their legacy earlier today by winning the Lead World Championship in Hachioji, Japan. Mia Krampl and Alexander Megos took silver, Ai Mori and Jakob Schubert bronze.
Hidemasa Nishida and Chaehyun Seo superb at Briançon
25/07/2019 - Competitions
Hidemasa Nishida and Chaehyun Seo superb at Briançon
Leonardo di Marino, international route setter along with Carles Brasco and Jan Zbraneck at the Briançon stage of the Climbing Lead World Cup 2019, reports about last Saturday’s event won by Japan’s Hidemasa Nishida and South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo. Janja Garnbret and Hiroto Shimizu took silver, Natsuki Tanii and Shuta...
Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo stars in Chamonix
15/07/2019 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Chaehyun Seo stars in Chamonix
The second stage of the Lead World Cup 2019 was won in Chamonix on Saturday night by 15-year-old Chaehyun Seo and Adam Ondra. The Speed World Cup stage was won by YiLing Song and Alfian Muhammad.