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Virger Nordkette winter traverse completed by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer
07/04/2021 - Alpinism
Virger Nordkette winter traverse completed by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer
From 2 -3 March 2021 Matthias Wurzer and Vittorio Messini, two mountain guides from Kals, Austria, completed a winter ascent of the Virger Nordkette (Frosnitzkamm) from Hintereggerkogel to Galtenscharte in one and a half days. Messini reports.
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
08/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
On 03/03/2021 on Civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
24/02/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
19/02/2021 - Alpinism
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
The report about the first Ice Climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad Expeditions.
Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
16/02/2021 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of Lila Luna, a direct start to the classic icefall Sot la sesa at Mulegns in Switzerland.
Two spectacular new icefalls in Dolomites, directly opposite Tre Cime di Lavaredo
15/02/2021 - Alpinism
Two spectacular new icefalls in Dolomites, directly opposite Tre Cime di Lavaredo
South Tyrolean mountain guides Manuel and Martin Baumgartner have established Eisradius and Last Minute, two new ice climbs in Rienztal (Höhlensteintal) with spectacular panorama onto the Tre Cime di Lavaredo described as 'probably one of the most beautiful views in the Dolomites.’
Dolomites ice climbing: Cascata Toboga climbed at Pala delle Masenada in Moiazza
28/01/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Cascata Toboga climbed at Pala delle Masenada in Moiazza
Climbed on 16 January 2021 by Gianni Del Din and Otello De Toni, the icefall Cascata Toboga at Pala delle Masenade in Moiazza (Dolomites) is the winter version of the summer rock climb first ascended in 1989 by Giuliano De Marchi and Anna Sommavilla. Del Din reports while the topo...
Space Shuttle on Kleine Rodelheilspitze, new mixed climb in the Dolomites
25/01/2021 - Alpinism
Space Shuttle on Kleine Rodelheilspitze, new mixed climb in the Dolomites
Markus Huber from the South Tyrol reports about the first ascent of Space Shuttle, a new mixed climb on Kleine Rodelheilspitze (Sass dla Lùesa), above Passo Gardena in the Sella group of the Italian Dolomites.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent with Piero Onorati.
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
The film Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle, dedicated to the Canadian ice climbing guru who died in 2009.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.

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