228 News found

Interview with Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold after the ropeless ascent of via Comici - Dimai up Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) in 46 minutes and 30 seconds.

Swiss climbers Marcel Schenk and David Hefti have climbed Via Nardella up Piz Badile, opened in 1973 by Daniele Chiappa, Giulio Martinelli, Tiziano Nardella and Elio Scarabelli in 1973. Hefti and Schenk onsighted all pitches, except for two which were climbed free by the second.

The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.

Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.

Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.

Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.

Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.

Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.

On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later, Switzerland’s Caro North and Argentinia’s Carlos Molina also completed the...

At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports

Winter mountaineering in the Dolomites: on the NW Face of the Innerkofler Tower, Langkofel / Sassolungo, Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of the mixed climb of Caddymania. Zaccaria reports.

Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.

Climbing in Zion National Park, USA: in November 2018 Paul Gagner and Ryan Kempf made the first ascent of Museum Piece (V 5.8 A4), a new aid climb up the Angelino Wall.

Interview with Simon Gietl after his ascent free solo ascent of Via Lacedelli up Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites on 18 October 2018.

Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.