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Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
30/09/2015 - Climbing
Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dave Graham rock Flatanger
Thor’s Hammer 9a+ at Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway has been repeated by Daniel Woods, Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert. Dave Graham has made the first repeat of The Illusionist 9a.
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
28/09/2015 - Climbing
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Kyparissi, a mere 5 hours from Athens and a secluded paradise for sport climbing. Although currently there are just over 100 sport climbs, the potential is enormous and the Kyparissi Climbing Festival has been organised from 2 - 4 October 2015 to celebrate the recent development in...
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
25/09/2015 - Climbing
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
Gian Paolo Rivara introduces La Terrazza, the beautiful little crag at Villa, Liguria, Italy. 17 sport climbs from 6a - 8a+ hosted in this disused conglomerate quarry at Pietrabissara.
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
22/09/2015 - Climbing
La Guerriera on Cima Bassa d'Ambiez, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
This summer Luca Cornella Michel Ghezzi made the first ascent of La Guerriera, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Bassa d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve crosses Spigolo Cassin (Riccardo Cassin, Aldo Frattini and Rodolfo Varallo,...
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a new 500m alpine sports climb up Einserkofel in the Italian...
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
13/09/2015 - Climbing
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
One of the most famous moderate routes in Yosemite, Snake Dike on Half Dome, was lit up on 29 August 2015 to raise awareness for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and highlight safety issues concerning rebolting and regularly maintaining existing sport climbs.
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
11/09/2015 - Climbing
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later
After 30 years Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla returns to climb Via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route on the Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites… and experience those (ghastly and unrepeatable) moments, those distant memories that resurface in an unexpected perspective.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
04/09/2015 - Climbing
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
In September 2014 Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel made the first ascent of Della Funivia (7c, 300m), a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
27/08/2015 - Alpinism
Ulamertorsuaq, Swiss attempt to free climb Piteraq in Greenland
Over a ten-day period in July 2015 Silvan Schüpbach and Bernadette Zak attempted to make the first free ascent of the 1200m high Piteraq up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland. Except for a 3m pendulum on pitch 22, the swiss alpinists climbed everything free with difficulties up 7c, R, X.