1845 News found

Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.

In August 2015 on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria Alexander Luger made the first ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m).

Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.

American rock climber Chris Sharma tests his skills on Magie blanche, a sport climb at Mouriès in France bolted by Marc Le Ménestrel and freed by Didier Raboutou back in 1989. At the time, this slab was hailed as one of the hardest climbs in the world...

Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.

Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.

The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.

British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus have made the first repeat of The Secret Passage, the 5.13c (8a+) climb on El Capitan established ground-up in 2008 by Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva.

Italy’s Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c sports climb located at beautiful Osso, freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012 and repeated only by Gabriele Moroni. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.

At the end of October Canadian rock climber Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent of Blue Jeans Direct, a 8 pitch 5.14a on Mount Yamnuska in Canada.

At Margalef in Spain Alexander Megos has made a fast redpoint of Demencia Senil 9a+ and onsighted Victimes del Passat 8c+.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.

Jacopo Larcher talks about his first climbing trip to Yosemite Valley, USA with Barbara Zangerl, during which they repeated El Nino (5.13c, 800m) on El Capitan and other granite big wall climbs.

On 17/11/2015 Jakob Schubert freed Companion of Change, the first 9a in the Zillertal, Austria.

On 12/11/2015 at Nago close to Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Sid Lives, a new 9a sports climb.

On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).