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Lino D'Angelo farewell
30/03/2016 - Alpinism
Lino D'Angelo farewell
Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
24/03/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
23/03/2016 - Climbing
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. Some pitches along this 400m climb still need to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. The trip report by Paolo Marazzi.
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
15/03/2016 - Interviews
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
Interview with American climber Kevin Jorgeson, famous for his first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite (together with Tommy Caldwell in January 2015), who is about to embark on a two week trip to the Greek island of Lesbos together with his fiancée Jacqui Becker....
Iker Pou adds new 9a climb to Mallorca
14/03/2016 - Climbing
Iker Pou adds new 9a climb to Mallorca
39-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Cleteropa Original 9a on the island of Mallorca, Spain
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
10/03/2016 - Climbing
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
The video of the first ascent of El Lobo del Desierto, a new multi-pitch rock climb established by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi at the start of January 2016 up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos at Monterrey in Mexico.
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
09/03/2016 - Climbing
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
Alessandro Beber retraces the climbing expedition to the Republic of Chad, carried out toward the end of 2015 together with Stefano Angelini, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti, Jiri Leskovjan, Alessandro Lucchi and Piero Ravà.
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile.
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Although some sections were climbed with the use of...
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26/02/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned...
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Charles Albert bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau
22/02/2016 - Climbing
Charles Albert bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau
Interview with French climber Charles Albert who, bouldering barefoot, has climbed up to 8C in Fontainebleau, France.
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by Luca Zardini.