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Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
15/09/2017 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
12/09/2017 - Climbing
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
On 28 July 2017 Jacopo Larcher and Paolo Marazzi made the first free ascent of Così parlò Zarathustra, a A3 aid climb in Vallone di Sea established in 1983 by Isidoro Meneghin and Daniele Caneparo.
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
09/09/2017 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
07/09/2017 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
03/09/2017 - Alpinism
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
31/08/2017 - Alpinism
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
25/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
In July 2017 the Italian climbers Matteo de Zaiacomo, Dimitri Anghileri and Marco Maggioni belonging to the Ragni di lecco climbing club made the first ascent of Rivotra Mahery (strong wind) a new 700 meter rock climb with difficulties up to 8a+ on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
22/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
19/08/2017 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
The report by Pietro Radassao who at Frosolone (Molise, Central Italy) made the first ascent of 'Iron Moon', a sport climb for which the Italian climber suggests 8c+/9a.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo, Via Comici - Dimai, Via Cassin, Hasse Brandler, Spigolo degli...
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
17/08/2017 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites
Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek climb Project fear
15/08/2017 - Alpinism
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek climb Project fear
On 2 August 2017 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek carried out the second repeat of Project Fear (8c, 550 m) up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

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