Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.
While guiding some clients through the Fanes valley in spring, Tae first really caught my eye. Dominant and powerful, it sits high above Cortina and after some in-depth research I discovered that it still held some potential for new routes. Massimo da Pozzo, famous for his many climbs in the area, had opened two routes up there way back in 1988. Nevertheless, there was still some virgin rock on the righthand side, and that’s where Hannes Pfeifhofer and I headed to in June.
The climb was established over seven days ground-up, using a mix of normal pegs, bolts and trad gear. Hakuna Matata follows a "logical" line up the central part of Tae’s South Face, and includes some traverses where the rock was worn completely smooth by the glacial action. The belays are comfortable on ledges and the climbing, extremely technical, breaches difficulties up to 8a with obligatory 7b. The insitu gear can be integrated with friends. In addition to the beautiful first pitch, it’s worth underlining the last one with its Verdonesque final slab.
We truly believe the rock quality is some of the best that can be found in the Dolomites. Hannes managed to free the route in a single day in June. A fortnight later I managed to climb the route free in a day thanks to Franz Boschetti's support. We suggest 8a, and look forward to hearing what those who repeat it in the future have to say.
by Lisi Steurer
Info: FB Lisi Steurer, Hannes Pfeifhofer
Thanks to Arcteryx, Austrialpin, Sport Holzer Innichen, Alpinschule Sexten Dreizinnen, Osttirol Werbung
TOPO: Hakuna Matata, Taè, Dolomites
TOPO: all climbs Spalti di Col Becchei, Dolomites