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Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
03/11/2020 - Climbing
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
24/05/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
18/05/2020 - Climbing
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
20/04/2020 - Climbing
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
10/03/2020 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
In Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of two stunningly beautiful sport climbs, Simple Man 8c and Mojo Rising 8c+.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Aleksandra Taistra sends Sardinia's Hotel Supramonte
15/10/2019 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra sends Sardinia's Hotel Supramonte
Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb deep within the Gole di Gorropu Gorge in Sardinia, first ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in 1998/99.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
10/06/2019 - Climbing
Angela Eiter powers through Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco
Austrian rock climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent redpoint of Pure Dreaming, a 9a sports climb freed by Adam Ondra at Massone, Arco, Italy.
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.

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