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Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+ at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco.
Photo by Marco Erspamer

Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco

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At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.

Stefano Ghisolfi’s garage lockdown training has evidently been extremely effective, as in the last few days the Italian has repeated three 8c+ and made short work of his 9a/+ project.

Ghisolfi started by settling the score with Zauberfee, an 8c+ at Eremo di San Paolo bolted by Gerhard Hörhager and freed by Christian Bindhammer in 2003; Ghisolfi had attempted it briefly in 2015 and redpointed it now after a mere two days of effort. After redpointing X-Large at nearby Massone he returned to Eremo di San Paolo for St Anger, the 8c+/9a located immediately to the right of Zauberfee which he sent after just 5 attempts.

A bolt needed replacing on St Anger and while doing the necessary maintenance Ghisolfi also added a new bolt to connect the intense start of St Anger with finishing crux section of Zauberfee. This superb project withstood a mere three days. "Too hard to be just 9a, but too easy to be 9a+" was the 27-year-old’s comment, who has now called the linkup Beginning because it marks the start of a new "normality".

For the record, the bolts placed under the watchful eye of Severino Scassa are Ghisolfi’s first. Laghel is currently still off limits but Ghisolfi is now armed with a drill. Who knows what’ll get up to in the coming months!

Link: FB Stefano GhisolfiIG Stefano GhisolfiLa SportivaCampThe North Face

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Project Beginning is no more a project, the beginning of a new "normality" already started and climbing this route is the best way for me to begin dreaming again. Too hard to be just 9a, but too easy to be 9a+, the new route in Eremo di San Paolo is "Beginning" 9a/+ ! Thanks @sara_grip for all the support , @sevescassa for helping me with boltingthe connection, and @kirsch_climbing @bambinala and @laura.rogora for the videos and photos during the days of the tries. Watch the full story on my stories! @thenorthface @lasportivagram #foryourmountain @camp1889 @epictv @hrtholds @misuraweb @visittrentino #neverstopexploring @fiammeoromoena #fiammeoromoena @gardatrentino @italiateam @italiaclimbing @frictionlabs • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

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