189 News found

Czech climber Adam Ondra has made the third ascent of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo at Arco, Italy. Established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January and repeated by Laura Rogora a month ago, Ondra now believes it warrants 9b.

The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.

Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.

Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arcadia, a brilliant new crag close to Leonidio in Greece.

Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.

On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...

At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.

On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.

On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)

At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.

On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.

The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.

In Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of two stunningly beautiful sport climbs, Simple Man 8c and Mojo Rising 8c+.

Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.

A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.