New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems

On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).
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Mathias Mandi making the first ascent of 'I Ribelli Della Montagna' on Punta Argennas in Sardinia
archivio Klaas Willems

Sardinia-based Belgian climber Klaas Willems has established what he has described as a "cool new multipitch" on the Mediterrean island, namely I Ribelli Della Montagna, mountain rebelson Punta Argennas.

Willems, who has plenty of experience bolting single pitches at his home crags at Ulassai, teamed up with Mathias Mandi and explained "we always wanted to try and open a multipitch together, and opted for an easier line to learn the process. Halfway up the 2nd pitch we saw that the guidebook was wrong and the line on the right (L’inventore dei sogni) didn’t go straight up but traversed the wall towards the left. We didn’t want the two lines to cross or climb too close to each other, so we had to traverse out left into what looked like harder terrain. We didn’t know what to expect because we'd only checked out the middle of the wall where we thought our line would go. We got really excited when we found a tufa on the 4th pitch! All the climbing is pretty sustained and the quality of the rock is really good once you passed the grassy ledges in the first pitch. Mandi is going to return after summer to clean them a bit more."

The route was established ground-up during which an impressive leader fall was taken when a skyhook popped, and was freed a few days later with difficulties estimated as follows: 6b+, 7c, 7a+, 7b+, 7a+, 7b. Willems concluded that "It was a super cool experience and I hope to open some more lines on the island. I love the process!"

Willems thanks his sponsor La Sportiva and Petzl for the inox 10mm bolts used to establish the climb

By car: From Baunei drive up towards Golgo-San Pietro. After the top you drive back down and take the first dirt road on the right (same as for Punta Giradili). After 700m you go right at the Ovile and 1.3km further there is a small parking on the left. 10m further there is a sharp turn right where the walking path starts and where you can also park your car.

Approach: Walk down, pass the shepherd farm and go left. Follow the path going down (valley Bacu Orrolossi) until you arrive at a gate before a shepherds bridge. Keep right directly after and follow the path parallel 50m below the wall traversing a forest and scree slopes. After you pass the line you can walk uphill on a scree slope until the wall. Go 50m right until you arrive at a big grass field. The line starts right of the big corner system of the line Capo Ferito (25 min)

Descent: From the top of the wall go right and walk parallel with the wall and follow the cairns until you get to the forest (10 min). Follow the path until you get back to the approach path. From here it’s a further 5minutes back to the car. (20 min)




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