Adam Ondra makes swift third ascent of Erebor, 9b at Arco in Italy
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Planetmountain.com
After a mere four days of effort Adam Ondra clipped the chains of Erebor, the testpiece at Eremo di San Paolo just outside Arco, Italy, put up by local Stefano Ghisolfi at the start of the year and repeated a month ago by Laura Rogora.
Ghisolfi had suggested the grade 9b/+, while Ondra now suggests 9b. On his Instagram account, Ondra explained his line of thinking: "Props to Stefano Ghisolfi for bolting his first route that turned out to be such a gem. Hats off to Laura Rogora for repeating this beast so quickly! Regarding the grade, my suggestion is 9b. There are easier solutions for the upper crux compared to the original method of Stefano that is definitely 9b/b+ in my opinion. My method is probably a little morphological, but there are little different ways around it or if you like tiny crimps, there is always the beta of Laura for short climbers."
The 28-year-old added "I am aware that I might be criticized for downgrading a route that was recently climbed by a woman. The fact that Laura did Erebor is one of the most impressive feats in climbing ever, but my suggestion is just my honest opinion and not a way to put down her achievement. Not talking about the fact she can definitely climb harder than that."
Info: www.adamondra.com, IG Adam Ondra, La Sportiva
