189 News found

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.

On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+ mandatory) and was dedicated to the deceased friends Giovanni Allevi...

British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.

Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'Baise moi' at the crag Saint Auban in the Verdon Gorge, France. The Frenchman climbed the route flash style and has suggested the grade 8c+.

After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b

On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).

In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.

Italian climber Federica Mingolla has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb in the Gola di Gorropu gorge in Sardinia, established ground-up between 1998 and 1999 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.

French climber Sébastien Bouin has sent a flurry of hard routes in Portugal. At the seacliff crag Meio Mango at Cabo Espichel the 29-year-old established Rei de Bering at 9a+/b the hardest sport climb in the country.

At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports

In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.

In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

The new climbing series Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin, featuring the crag Thaurac.

Wildfires raging across Spain have also burnt beneath Oliana, one of the most famous crags in the world.

Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions

Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our article written in conjunction with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday,...