Climbs rebolted in Sardinia on Punta Cusidore, Bruncu Nieddu, Monte Udde

From 7- 13 May 2025, the first Aspirant Mountain Guide exam session of the Italian Interregional Hub took place in Sardinia, more precisely between Dorgali, Oliena, and Baunei.

This geographical area boasts magnificent peaks and faces, including Punta Cusidore, Monte Uddè, Monte Oddeu, the Gole di Gorropu, Bruncu Nieddu, Surtana, and many others. These walls feature excellent grey limestone and host a plethora of climbs, some of which were established 30 years ago.

The climbing/mountaineering community knows well that metal anchors (bolts, belay stations, etc.) do not last indefinitely. Especially in areas exposed to sea air (such as the coasts of Sardinia, Sicily, and Greece), it is very common for such anchors to be "compromised by salt spray and marine corrosion", no longer guaranteeing the safety standards they had "when new".

For this reason, we felt it was important to organise a Mountain Guide course in this area, in part also to send a message of "safeguarding the climbing heritage". We re-bolted several historic routes using 316L stainless steel bolts (more resistant to these atmospheric agents) to give these beautiful routes new life and enable future ascensionists to repeat the climbs in greater safety.

After obtaining written agreements with the Municipality of Oliena and conducting careful analysis – including seeking permission from the first ascensionists of these climbs (in this case Maurizio Oviglia, a highly active and meticulous new route in Sardinia and elsewhere) – 27 students from the Mountain Guide course and 10 instructors from the Interregional Hub re-bolted the following routes:

L’ombra della mia mano - Punta Cusidore
First ascent: Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, Pala, 1996
Max 6b+, 10 pitches, abseil descent

Legittimo bastardo - Bruncu Nieddu
First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia, Simone Sarti, 2000
Max 7c, 8 pitches, abseil descent

Stella di Sangue - Bruncu Nieddu
First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (solo), 2000
Max 7b, 8 pitches, abseil descent

Sguercia - Monte Uddè
First ascent: Enzo Lecis, Simone Sarti, 1999
Max 7b, 8 pitches, abseil descent

Monte Maccione Crag (Re-bolting of 4 routes)

On these routes, all deteriorated in-situ gear was removed without altering either the original line of the routes or the distance between the bolts. New bolts and belay anchors were installed using 10mm and 12mm expansion bolts and pre-assembled chain anchors (see photographs). Some of the existing pro would have been "lethal" in the event of a fall, as can be seen in some of the photographs.

Matteo Canova,
Director of the Interregional Hub Mountain Guide Course