L'ombra della mia mano - Punta Cusidore

Planetmountain.com
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Alberto De Giuli climbing pitch 1 of 'L'ombra della mia mano' on Punta Cusidore, Sardinia
Carlo Cosi
Beauty
First ascent
Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, Antonello Pala 08/1996
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
NW
Length
300m
Height
1147m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6a+/S1+/II
Departure
Oliena
Published on
16/07/2025

Route



L'ombra della mia mano is a beautiful route established ground-up in 1996 by Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, and Antonello Pala on the northwest face of Punta Cusidore - the "mountain of the Sardinians" that rises over a thousand meters above the plains of Oliena.

The route follows exceptionally high-quality limestone and, with the intention of creating an alpine sports climb, additional bolts were added by the first ascensionists on descent. Initially graded 6b+ max, the first pitch in particular shouldn't be underestimated, and overall, solid 6c skills are needed to fully enjoy the climb.

In May 2025, after receiving approval from the first ascentionists and the municipality of Oliena, the route was rebolted with 316L stainless steel bolts and belay chains by Italian mountain guides and aspiring guides. The original distance between the bolts was carefully preserved.

Getting there

From Oliena reach Preda ‘e Lithu (335m).

GPS coordinates:
 40.270650° N, 9.460588° E

Access

Variable, depending on where you park. From Preda ‘e Lithu – a massive limestone boulder at the base of Cusidore – follow the steep path uphill through the woods, first left then back right onto the scree slope. Skirt around the buttress and obvious NW arete, and reach the base of the climb in small amphitheater. The first bolt is clearly visible (45 minutes).

GPS coordinates: 40,26418° N, 9,45624° E

Itinerary

P1: 6c, 30m
P2: 5b, 15m
P3: 6a+ 35m
P4: 6a+, 50m
P5: 6a, 30m
P6: 6b+, 40m
P7: 6a, 40m
P8: 5c, 15m
P9: 6a, 40m

Descent

Abseil down the route. Alternatively, use the new abseil stations on the west face; long and exposed, this is not recommended.

Gear

Take 15 quickdraws, helmet, 2x60m ropes for the abseil descent.

Maps/Bibliography

Pietra di Luna Trad & Multipitches, Guida all'arrampicata in Sardegna, Maurizio Oviglia, Fabula Edizioni 2014





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Beauty
First ascent
Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, Antonello Pala 08/1996
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
NW
Length
300m
Height
1147m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6a+/S1+/II
Departure
Oliena
Published on
16/07/2025

Route



Position



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